Growing grass from seed

I have never grown grass before so would appreciate some advice.
When I moved in, my garden was an absolute jungle due to it being
untouched for around 10 years. I have now cleared one side and want to
get grass growing.
My question is about using a weed barrier to stop any roots/seeds from
coming back up.
Would this work do you think? Obviously, I would use a weed barrier that
allows water to drain through and I would probably have around 3 inches
of top soil/compost on top for my seeds.
Also, is it best to use compost on the top to level it all off, or do I
need to use top soil? I am not really sure what the difference between
the two is.
Thanks for any help
Reply to
Using a weed barrier where? I'm not a big fan of weed barriers, but if they are going to be used, they are used in landscaped beds, around trees, etc, not where you have turf. How would grass grow if you have a weed barrier?
And the weeds will grow just like the grass grows.
You want topsoil. Compost can be mixed in. Topsoil is the top layer of the soil, extending from a few inches to maybe a foot or so, depending on the area. Compost is decayed organic matter. Topsoil consists of some compost, which occurs naturally from decaying vegetation, plus other soil components like sand, clay, etc. If the topsoil is good, you don't need to add compost. For growing new turf in most areas, you don't need to add compost in, but it can help. What you use depends on what is available locally and how much it costs.
I'd google for lawn renovation or seeding a new lawn. Also, don't know where you are, climate, etc. But if it's a cool season grass area and it's summer now, it's the worst time to try to establish a new lawn. Fall, ie Sept is best time. Then you have cooler temps. Now you'd have to water the lawn many times a day to keep it wet. And even once it starts to grow, you have to keep putting water on it if it's 85F. You also have huge competition from weeds. In Sept, nature is on your side. And then the lawn has a long time to establish good roots, before it hits it's first summer stress. If you want a lawn now, I'd consider buying sod, depending on area, budget, etc.
Reply to
- > Hello >
- > Hello >
Thanks for the advice.
I meant put the weed barrier on top of the soil, then add more soil on top (e.g. 3 inches) for the grass to grow on.
I am going to have to top up the soil area so that it is level, so I was just wondering whether there is any advantage from putting a weed barrier down before I put fresh top soil on top to level it.
I am in Scotland so I was thinking to do it about now when the sun is still out. My box of seeds says September is the latest time of year you can sow them.
Don't have money to spend on turf but it's not urgent either so I can wait for the seeds to grow.
Reply to
Thanks for the advice - so do you mean that I can use a weed barrier to stop weeds from coming up? If so, how much soil should be on top of the weed barrier?
One of my reasons for growing grass is to stop weeds from coming up, making it easier for me to maintain.
Do you think that once grass is growing well, it will stop weeds from coming up? If the grass will act as a weed barrier in itself, then I probably won't bother putting in a physical one.
Reply to
No, it would stunt the lawn grass and make it vulnerable to drought. Forget the weed barrier.
Yes, a good, healthy stand of turf will block the weeds. You may need to do spot weeding to keep it that way. This requires a mower with a sharp blade that you use often and at the proper height setting. (Many people mow too close and too infrequently.)
What you may want to do (if you have the time and patience and are willing to use some chemicals weed killers) is to spray the lawn-to-be with glyphosate to kill the current vegetation, then when it's dead, till, add topsoil, and regrade.
Let the weeds sprout, then kill, till and regrade if neccessary. Let the weeds sprout one more time, kill the sprouts and rake. *Then* plant your grass seed, using recommended varieties and guidelines for your area.
The extra cycles of letting the weeds sprout and killing them will (somewhat) deplete the supply of weed seeds that will be competing with your new grass *and* give the area time to settle a bit *before* you commit your time and resources to growing the lawn.
Reply to
Pat Kiewicz
Here's a big fat hint: soil contains weed seeds. Plus, wind and rain deposit still more seed onto soil. Thus, applying a weed barrier and piling soil over it would accomplish exactly nothing in terms of weed reduction.
You will have weeds. That's normal. Once the grass seed has sprouted and been mown three times, you can treat the new lawn with an appropriate chemical weedkiller. Or, if the area is small enough, you can hand weed it at any time. But don't sweat the weeds. Your primary goal is to get the grass well established. You can make getting rid of the weeds your followup goal once the turf is well established.
Reply to
Moe DeLoughan

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