Is that your specialty? Fluffer for them? Don't be shy dang. Is that
what you are doing here? Trolling for hvacfella?
Is that really better than your old filter changing job dang? Or are the
tips that good?
Well, you really haven't given enough information.... Like: Is there any
insulation in your house? Are you having an issue with the temp. upstairs or
Given that you have a guarantee to it will provide a 20 degree F
differential, and it appears that the system isn't able to achieve that, you
really just need to call the contractor back and say it's not working like
it says it will in your contract. If recent means this past spring, they
should be happy to sent someone over to fix whatever has failed. That's
assuming there's language like "this brand spankin' new AC system will cool
the entire interior of your home to achieve at least a 20 degree F
differential below the local outdoor ambient temperature" You probably have
nothing in writing that says that. You wouldn't be asking here if you did.
If you push hard enough for the 20 degree F differential, they can perform a
simple modification where they can guarantee the 20 degrees. Unfortunately,
your house will be 20 degrees warmer inside than it is outdoors.
The other questions you ask.... "....what is the normal.... ....can it
perform to cool...." are completely irrelevant. The only issue is what you
contracted for. For the price you paid, the only conceivable work done was
dropping a condenser outside, running a lineset, and modifying your existing
air handler to accept an evaporator. What kind of thermostat did you get?
They may need to replace it with a better one.
Oh.... And how is that foundation doing? Did you ever figure out how there
was a 16 year difference between the age of the house and foundation? Maybe
I was on to something about not having insulation.
First the heat don't work in your truck, and now the AC don't work right in
And of course, you don't like the prices that you pay for anything.
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Is $500 too much to replace EVAP canister and vent control ... Group:
alt.autos.nissan.maxima Hi I had to replace valvle and canister. Dealer
wanted $600 for it, i figured that's
too much and did it myself. It took me almost weekend but knowing what
to do can
take no more than 2 hours. valve cost $120 and canister $180 in my
May 2 2006 by Djavdet - 3 messages - 3 authors
There is an insulation but i am not sure what kind.. did not build the
i started looking at downstairs first and haven't come upstairs yet
since have a problem here...
i have a contract saying designed 70 on a day 90 for cooling , is
that good enough?
and i guess it covers your joke about house being warmer 20 degees
than outside huh? :-)
what else could they do? the guy came over i let him walking all over
the house, he looked up the heating system sized the house and said
it's all cool , we can do it! what else should i be asking him?
the contractor assured me that they performed all needed sizing and
calculations. in fact i had 2 different ones coming and magically
their numbers matched... that's why i kinda trusted the last one and
let them do the job.
no, they replaced old one with new wireless one, with all cool led
display and nice buttons..
What are you talking about?
> First the heat don't work in your truck, and now the AC don't work
what's it have to do with my question? i even never had a truck, what
are you talking about?
sure i don't who does?
are you running some sort of background check on me?
i thought i could get some real advice on the freaking cenral ac!
So, being the temperature where you live was 94 degrees at 5:00 PM Friday,
you are trying to say that the house was 89 degrees with your "only 5 degree
difference" and you didn't open the windows until Mr. contractor could get
LED's? Bet that eats batteries. You probably mean LCD.
Uhh... You bought the house in early 2004. It was supposedly built in
'85.... That ring a few balls?
My bad. It's a Maxima. I guess that's not a truck. You had heat problems
with it none the less.
But of course! That's the first thing that is done.
Nope. That's what AHR is for. Oh, but wait ..... you already posted there.
BTW: "How fast can you get 10F drop in your house?" isn't what you are
after. Fast is bad, as usual. Also, think about the fact that the heating
system is 12 years old. That means the original was replaced 10 years after
the house was built. That should have told you something about what should
have been done when you went to ADD AC to it.
Yes that's what i say about temperature in the house. contractor
hasn't been back yet since i didn't call them trying to get more
educated about central ac and what to expect and apply on the real
situation in the house. no i did not open windows why? to make
situation even worse?
yeah, sure it's my bad it's lcd.. interesting, you did not comment my
story above? can you say anythig? is that how all contractors work or
it's just my "cheapest" one? and there is alot more they usually do?
hmm it's about right, where is 16 year number's coming out from?
well at least you could get correct info first before start joking
around... i don't care though.. as long as you provide any good info
i'm interested in...
what for? are you doing it on everyone who posts in this group? why?
jeez, why are trying to guess what i'm doing instead of just ask me?
if you think it's wrong group to post my question why didn't you
simply say so?
normally it's much better to ask in several different groups in
related areas to get faster and broader information.
Not exactly. i asked about how fast the guy can cool the house down to
compare what he has. so i could have at least some numbers....
yes i thought about 12 years old blower, so? according the contractor
they did not do anything to it and i assumed that pressure the blower
produces does not change after ac is installed or changes
insignificantly, am i wrong?
your guessed 10 years don't tell me anything, can you clarify what you
mean by those "calculations"? designed lifespan for the heater 20
year. it says on the manuall.. are you suggesting that it is too old?
*> well at least you could get correct info first before start joking*> around... i don't care though.. as long as you provide any good info*> i'm interested in...
You'll need to learn what components are generally involved, only then
will any discussion about them amount to anything useful to you.
After you've read and digested the above link, go here and explore:
(this really should just be the alt.hvac standard signature line <g>)
Ya know djavdet,
You can fool some of the people all of the time but you cant fool me
any of the time. You story is shit! If you had an A/C just installed
and it wasnt coolingl right, your ass would be on the phone instantly,
holiday or not. You bought a Goodman on the internet, you and a friend
put it in and now it doesnt work right. You saved what you thought was
a lot of money and got exactly what you paid for. Now spend that money
you saved and have an actual HVAC company come in and fix your screw
ups and shut the hell up.
Yes, you can leave now.
hmm happy now? told me off huh? i did not lie a single line..how 'bout
i 'm amazed, a plummer tells me "shut up"..ahh...i'll go hang
PS: what 'bout first time, did you believe me first time when you
If you have everything on paper as to guarantee, record few days
temperatures in side the house and outside and call your contractor
back and if he does not make good on it, take him/her to court.
Other guys that reply to you have better idea what you will
need for that split of temperature and size of you house
since I am not AC person. However I would say that you will
need more like 4 ton or more. Good luck
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