I overseeded my lawn about 5 weeks ago, and I applied a starter
fertilizer as well. The new grass has come up and I have already mowed
once. (4") The new grass looks kind of puny in a lot of places, and I
was wondering if it was too late to hit it again with fertilizer. I am
thinking that I did not apply enough the first time. I checked the soil
pH with a meter and it read 6.8, so I think that should be good. In 2-3
more weeks I want to apply a weed killer. Would it be okay to use a
fertilizer/weed killer combo, or is it too late for fertilizer?
many thanks for your help,
Not knowing your location nor the current condition of your lawn makes
a recommendation difficult. Weed killers are very punishing to young
grass--spot weed treatment is better. Most slow-release fertilizers
will last a couple months.
Location is central NC. The current condition of my lawn is weedy. ;) I
think spot weed treatment would be a waste of time in my case, because
there are a lot of weeds. How long should I wait before applying a weed
killer. Maybe there is some "gentle" weed killer?
You can use a lawn weed killer such as Weed-B-Gone or Spectricide.
I'd wait until the new grass has been mowed at least 3 times, but I
think it's better to forget about the weeds until next year. If you
can identify each of the weeds, all the better. My yard was very
weedy the first couple years, but the overseeding and spot treatment
helped a lot and now I seldom use weed killer. Consider overseeding
your lawn this fall--around mid September when rain is in the
forecast. Also, set your mower to 3-1/2" or higher for fescue. It is
a common mistake that people mow too low which promotes crab grass and
You can probably use another application of starter fertilizer, but at
half rate and when the ground is damp. You can safely apply an
organic fertilizer at any time--I use Milorganite in June (e.TN).
On Sun, 01 May 2005 14:10:46 GMT, Barry Andrews
Underfertilized is better than overfertilized on young grass.
I assume you're talking about a weed and feed sort of product. Read the
labels carefully. All I know of are NOT recommended until the seedlings are
probably 4-6 months old.
Patience, grasshopper. <g> If you want to do something nice for your lawn,
sharpen the mower blades and learn the correct mowing height for the grass
species in your lawn.
The very best weed control is what the weed science folks call "canopy
closure": a dense turf cut long enough (and never scalped!) that weed
seedlings don't have a chance to develop. The way you mow and how
frequently you mow can have a profound effect on your lawn's appearance.
Kay Lancaster email@example.com
Right! Currently I am mowing at 4". I have tall fescue. Problem is, I
don't yet have a dense turf to crowd out the weeds. But you are probably
right, I am being impatient. ;)
Kay Lancaster wrote:
Patience, fortitude, and a sharp mower blade. Remember you shouldn't
remove more than 1/3 the height of the grass at any one mowing. 4" is a
good summer height... it's typically cut a bit shorter spring and fall, but
I wouldn't do that to seedlings.
Have you done a soil analysis? That's another factor you want to explore
for maximum lawn quality for minimum cost and labor.
Mumble years ago, two friends and I reseeded my mom's heavy clay soil
after some foundation work that had made a total mess of the yard. We
brought in truckloads of municipal compost (I'd love to have some of that
now!), and spread it about 4" thick on the newly graded soil, then planted
Kentucky bluegrass, red fescue, tall fescue, and some buckwheat (which
was a marker for seed density for us) -- this was early October in the
midwest. Watered it in and then I had to leave for my home in Oregon,
but I got reports: "The buckwheat's up, but the grass seed is dead".
"Nope, there's some grass seed up, but it'll never survive the winter,
it's too puny, and there's too much soil between the seedlings."
Mid-December, I heard about how the grass seemed to be thickening up,
but it'd be a pity when it all died when the snows came. April of
the following year (it was a long snowy winter) I heard that the grass
seedlings had made it just fine and the buckwheat was dead (yes, I'd
planned it that way!). By June I was hearing complaints that the grass
was too thick to mow easily. <g>
Patience. Good things come to those who wait. <g>
If you have some truly nasty perennial weeds in your yard -- on the order
of Canada thistle, quackgrass, johnsongrass -- as opposed to dandelions
and crabgrass, then consider spot treating this year with a systemic
herbicide like glyphosate or gluofsinate, and spot seeding this fall.
But personally, I'd leave the weed and feed on the shelf at the store.
I don't know exactly all the different weeds there are. I know there
are lots of tall purple flowers and even more short yellow flowers if I
don't mow for a while. Actually looks kind of pretty. So maybe I am
being stupid for trying to kill them. ;) There are also lots of
dandelions and a few wild onions.
I guess the biggest question is, which is worse for the new grass.
Having lots of weeds, or applying a weed killer?
Phisherman, I will definitely overseed again this fall.
Do not use a weed killer on your new grass. You can control the weeds
with mowing. The grass is too tender for 2 4d.
Reseed the sparse patches. and water well.
Fertilize with CIL Golfgreen which will last til autumn.
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