I have these placed in beds all over the garden. Needed some for new areas. Went to OSH (local homeowners/garden place). Only hose they carry was so crappy, it split even before using. Tried Home Despot. Carried same brand.
Decided to revert to previous M.O. : PVC pipe, capped at one end, other end equipped with hose junction. Small holes punched at intervals.
Previous endeavour had holes randomly placed; sprayed unevenly.
Resolved to do better.
How engineer holes along 10' length? How many needed for optimum coverage?
First thought: Alternate holes along opposite sides of pipe. But at what intervals? Punch holes at wide intervals and then intersperse if needed?
A lot of work. However, once I bought the fittings (pipe courtesy of neighbor)
gotta go through with it.
On Thursday, September 19, 2013 5:59:59 PM UTC-7, Drew Lawson wrote:
No point. That was the only item on sale. Some vendor sold the buyer on the idea, is my best bet.
Local store (West LA) was extensively remodeled a year or so ago; is attractive and well stocked, but not with a wide range of brands; nothing innovative.
The help tries, I've often been sent from one end of a large store to another because they didn't know where things were.
When they opened, there was help crawling all over you; also on their anniversary. Other times, hard to find.
On Thursday, September 19, 2013 9:28:58 PM UTC-7, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Wouldn't that be much more expensive? To install (immovable) spray jets in multiple beds sounds pricey. This project so far is under $10 and PVC pipes are movable. Plus not sure I would have the skill to install spray jets.
I was looking for a good pattern of hole punching, but I suppose it's not that critical. Tx anyway.
Remember, you'll get a significant difference in amount of water leaked
or sprayed at the beginning compared to the end of the length. You may
want to do an experimental run, and plan on drilling more holes towards
the far end of the run once you've seen how the pattern you've drilled
FWIW, I buried some of what I call "ooze hose" -- it looks foamy --
http://www.groworganic.com/1-4-mr-soaker-hose-100-roll.html under mulch
and it lasted for many, many years. In clay soils, I like the laser
drilled 1/4" tubing.
And don't forget a backflow preventer.
On Friday, September 20, 2013 2:42:03 PM UTC-7, Kay Lancaster wrote:
Tx Kay. Been there with existing PVC pipe "sprayer". Main thing is to keep it level. But I did notice on existing one that holes should be drilled on opposite sides of pipe to ensure even coverage.
> FWIW, I buried some of what I call "ooze hose" -- it looks foamy --
Sounds too high-tech for moi <g>
? Why would I need that on such a simple installation? Alerted by you, I read the (terrifying) Wikipedia article, and wonder how I survived all these years using my first basic PVC watering device.g>
Perhaps helped that it was downhill from house? Frivolity aside, would it really be needed for small garden beds not uphill from house water supply?
Cheap and easy to run. Lasts long enough that I figure I get my money's worth.
It's required by code in most places; and a cheap and simple Darn Good Idea. For instance, in a warm
climate, you might introduce some of the jollier amoebae into your water system, like Naegleria fowleri
or Entamoeba histolytica. Or some nasty bacteria or waterborne virus.
In our case, since we're on a well and don't chlorinate, I could possibly contaminate the entire aquifer. Most of us have pretty good immune systems most of the time. Sometimes our luck runs out. I try not
to push my luck too far. At any rate, I'd hate to be known in Wikipedia forever as the biologist who
did not fully understand the lessons of the Broad Street Pump Handle.
Downhill helps... siphons don't run uphill, though you can siphon over a hill. For $5 and a few inches of
teflon tape, I don't mind installing anti-siphon devices.
If there is sufficient pressure in the system -- beyond the connection
to the hose bib -- it is possible for there to be backflow into your
household water line. Soil and soil organisims can enter the system
through the holes in the PVP pipe when the water is shut off. Thus,
there is a possibility of contaminating the household water supply.
In general, a system as proposed by Higgs Boson should have a backflow
preventer, sometimes known as an anti-syphon valve. The building codes
in California (where Higgs and I both live) require it.
In my garden, I paid a landscape contractor to install a fixed
irrigation system with underground pipes supplying above-ground
sprinkler heads. I have a total of 9 valves for the flat areas and 4
valves for the hill, with 13 anti-syphon valves. The same contractor
also designed and installed the landscape.
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
I think someone misunderstands antisiphon fittings. In the event
of loss of system pressure or the occurance of "negative" differential,
antisiphon valves open the system to the atmosphere to reduce the
possibility of introducing pollutants from downstream. In many local
jurisdictions across US, they are required on at least exterior
faucets/hydrants/hose bibb fittings; on laundry and dishwashing
machines; and on those hand held "shower" things.
I wonder just how often the situation arrises where this gadget actually
does some good. Has it ever been observed? This protection is so vital
that the Sydney metropolitan area (over 4 million people) gets by without
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