Re: Tiller abilities

[Roy]

x-Hi. I am getting ready to make some beds for a garden which is

>x-currently grass. As the first step I was going to rent a sod cutter >x-and remove the grass (I have started it by hand, but I don't have 6 >x-weeks to get it done), and then rent a tiller to turn up the soil >x-and/or mix the appropriate organic material into the beds. Since it >x-costs about $80/day to rent each machine, I then thought it might be >x-better to buy one (hopefully used) since I would probably end up >x-needing them on at least 4 occasions (that is if I can get >x-organized/plan far enough ahead), or more (if I remain dis-organized). >x- From there my question - I have been reading about tillers on the >x-web, but I have a couple of questions. Assuming we are staying in the >x-$600 Tractor Supply/Lowes range of rear-tine tiller, how would they do >x-at the following: (I know almost nothing about these machines) >x- >x-(1) sod removal - setting it so that they only remove the top 3-4", >x-which I can rake/shovel to get the grass up

This is accomplished with the depth control of the tiller. Most if not all have a feature that allows depth to be regulated in about 1" increments

x-(2) breaking virgin clayey soil

Most should do it, some easier than others, but ts certainly within the spec of a garden tiller

x-(3) breaking a packed gravel driveway so that I can more easily remove >x-the gravel (sort of like #1, scrape the top 1" or so). >x-

Should also present little problems, might be a bit rough to start, but it would be no worse than unbroken packed soils

x-And some general questions about operation: >x- >x-(A) Does the user control the depth by how much you let the handles >x-down, or is there a machine setting to control this? (i.e. some types >x-of stops on how deep the tines can do)?

See #1 above

x- >x-(B) Does the machine move forward via the rotation of the tines, or >x-are the front wheels powered?

Dependss. There are some tillers out there that do not have wheels that have any drive ability. You have to hold back against the machine, and use a sprag that digs in to help hold it, and let the tines pull forward and let them dig in. STAY AWAY from these back breakers, they are trouble and not worth the hassle if they were giving them away for free. Some machies are forward rotating tines and some are couter rotating. Does not make too much difference to me which way they operate, except for at the end of a row, one will make a depression the other will not, other than that they both do a good job of tilling. The machines weight and the drive wheels are what holds the machine in place and sets the pace for tilling. The tines buck the motion of the wheels, and in the process till up the ground, with little need to hold the machine back or help push it forward.

x- >x-(C) if the tines move the machine forward, what about the counter >x-rotating tines and forward progress?

same principal as forward rotating tines, they work against the drive and hold the machine in place at the pace set by the speed selected.

x- >x-(D) if the wheels are powered, can we put them to other useages, like >x-snow plowing or grading stones or something? (I read about people >x-moving loads of soil and stuff like this, but it wasn't clear if this >x-was with a normal tiller or a super one (like one of the troy-builts >x-w/ a PTO)).

I would not call a Troybuilt a super tiller, there are others out there cheaper that work just as good and some even better. But even if it does not have a PTO and the ability to disconnect the tiller portion and install another attachment, you can always disengage the tiller tine drive and attach a snow blade or make a hitch and pull a wagon etc. Just look at it as a sort of 2 wheel tractor with limitations.

x- >x-Thanks very much for your input,

I have an Atlas brand 8hp tiller that is built just like a Troy built pro model horse, but new it cost me only $695.00 at the local co-op. It can do what a Troy built does, has all the same features and at better than 50% of the cost of a Troybuilt. Its easy to work on if need be, tills up to 8" deep, has a hiller / furrower attachment and uses tines that look just like Troybuilts. It has proven to be trouble free in the years I have owned it (about 5 so far) Prior to this I bought a Troybuilt horse, pro model, and had lots of problems with reverse engage and belt slipping, then the Kohler magnum 7hp motor started to skip and miss, and I found out it had a broken cam shaft. All this i only 1 year of ownership. I sold it, and bought the Atlas, and its just been great. Never had the first glitch or problem, and I normally plant a 75 x 150 patch, plus use it to do a multitude of odds and ends, like drag a shank to make a ditch to lay wire or pipe in etc. Honda and BCS both make great tillers as do others. Just look for a unit with drive wheels, and don't worry if their gear or enclosed or chaian drive. They all work fine, and will last with reasonable care. My Troy had to be a lemon, but it was enough to turn me off of any further troybuilt products.

x- >x-don

-- Visit my website:

foundry and general metal working and lots of related projects. Regards Roy aka Chipmaker // Foxeye Opinions are strictly those of my wife....I have had no input whatsoever. Remove capital A from chipmAkr for correct email address

[don schad]

I am now dreaming of all the weird and wonderful uses I will be able to put my 2 wheel tractor to...and I"m sure the neighbors will get good amusement from all of them (both the successes and failures).

How fast can these things go when your not tilling? ;)

Thanks,

don

[Roy]

-- Visit my website:

foundry and general metal working and lots of related projects. Regards Roy aka Chipmaker // Foxeye Opinions are strictly those of my wife....I have had no input whatsoever. Remove capital A from chipmAkr for correct email address