when is the best time to move roses? is now ok, if i can keep them
watered, or should i wait until fall?
some are grafted & some are own root, if that matters. one is
supposedly a climber although it's never gotten more than 3' tall in
(Fourth of July http://www.rose.org/1999-winner-fourth-of-july/ )
also, i'm looking for low growing, full sun perennials for along a
walkway. i'm growing creeping thyme & chamomile between the stones.
ok, i'll try to wait until fall. it depends on if we start the pond
construction this summer or not.
they'll definately be getting more sun & a lot less competition from
the damned artimesias (Limelight. non-aggressive my foot! it's
*everywhere* & choking out the regular supposedly agressive
artimesias. killed my Southernwood).
I must tell that to all the roses I've moved. It seems that they don't know
that aren't supposed to move well.
Try to move them when it's the recommended time for planting roses in your
area. Mind you, I have moved things when I considered it 'must be done NOW'
and without following my own advice for it being the 'right' time and not
had any problems. I do think however that it is probably best to stick to
planting times when they can do maximum root restablishment before they are
expected to perform at their best.
In preparation, dig the new planting holes in the late summer. The
holes should be about 3-1/2 ft across and equally deep. Refill the
bottom 1/2 ft of each hole, stirring a double handful of bone meal or
superphosphate into the soil. It's actually best to use soil from the
surface to place at the bottom of the hole.
At the same time, dig down three arcs about 1-1/2 ft from the base of
each rose. The arcs should each be about 1/6 of the way around the
plant and about 2 ft deep. This will cut surface feeder roots, but new
feeder roots will form inside the arcs. The gaps between the arcs will
suffice to keep the plants growing.
Wait until the roses are just becoming dormant. The air should be cool
or cold, but the soil should still be somewhat warm. Connect the arcs,
digging down about another foot (total 3 ft deep). Then dig under each
rose, cutting any remaining roots. You will definitely need help
lifting 3x3ft root balls and moving them to the new planting holes.
Don't prune until you see new buds start to swell in the spring. One
fourth of the roses (or more) might fail to survive.
All this is too much work and too risky. Unless a particular variety of
rose is rare or no longer available commercially, I would instead just
remove and trash the existing roses and plant new ones. For those that
are rare or not available, I would take cuttings now and try to root
them; for each plant I want to preserve, I would do at least four
cuttings since some cuttings will fail. (I wish I had done this with my
climbing 'Chrysler Imperial' before I had to have the slope in my back
yard repaired. My rose bed was at the bottom of the slope and was
totally destroyed during regrading. While 'Chrysler Imperial' is still
available as a shrub, the climbing form is no longer grown commercially.
I finally replaced it with climbing 'Dublin Bay'.)
As for 'Fourth of July', I have it. It's growing at the side of my
house near the front. Finally, it has reached a wire rope that I strung
between my house and my neighbor's house, about 7 ft high. From April
until I prune it in December, it blooms repeatedly.
Regarding your search for perennials, I can't help you. Your climate is
far too different from mine, so I don't really know what would do well
in your garden.
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
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