Almost 2 years ago, we hired a tree company to cut down a 60 foot high
Chinese Elm with 24 inch trunk. Remaining stump is 3 inches high which
they filled grooves with chainsaw fuel. They guaranteed this would kill
the stump and prevent any regrowth. Not only has the stump NOT DIED,
but constantly produces "hundreds" of new fast growing twigs all year.
Is too costly to have stump killed by grinding company.
I sure could use suggestions for low cost methods and materials to
kill this sturdy aggressive stump. The tree stump and new seedlings
grows very rapidly, raised and cracked the city sidewalk and now is
producing seedlings all over my property in lawns, flower beds.
Any tree removal company that could take down a 60' tree would have a stump
grinder... they didn't finish the job... or more likely you chose not to pay
for the complete job. I'd call them back to grind the stump, should take no
more than 30 minutes tops, but of course now they have to make a whole
'nother trip to haul out their stump grinder, so now instead of the original
$100 it will now cost $300. Your attempting to remove a 2' diameter
hardwood stump chemically will take like 5+ years. This is a perfect
example of how the cheap comes out expensive. Unless you feel like digging
and hacking roots there really is no inexpensive way to remove that stump...
least costly and quickest is to grind it. You can probably kill it by
applying Roundup over a few days but you'll still have the stump.
Don't forget the freshly ground black pepper... oil and vinegar too! LOL
Actually salt will act as a preservative, same as why salts are used for
pressure treated lumber, salt will kill the composting organisms... and
later will hinder other plants from growing in that spot. There are wood
digesting proteases/enzymes one can buy to place in the holes, but they
decompose very slowly, need to be reapplied often, and they're not cheap.
If it's a stump one needs to be rid of in a relatively short time the only
method is to remove it mechanically, either dig it up or use a stump
grinder... and usually grinding doesn't remove the entire stump, just brings
it down a few inches below grade to where it can be covered with earth,
you'll still need to wait a couple three years before it fully decomposes.
I cut an elm down 3 years ago. The first year I kept filling the
holes in the stump with 34-0-0 for a year, then gave up. The stump is
still there, but grows one of the most delicious mushrooms. If the
stump ever softens up, I'll take an axe to it. BTW, the fallen elm
tree helped me create a very nice table with long-grain patterns and
shades of chocolate-colored wood. The roughsawn stock air-dried
nicely over a period of 2 years.
try mounding the stump with charcoal, pour a can of charcoal fluid on it and
when it has burned down, no flames, mound dirt over it so it just smolders for a
days. when it doesnt FEEL hot anymore, scrape some of the dirt away and feel for
warmth. when it isnt warm anymore then remound with dirt and water every day to
increase moisture for bacteria and fungus rotting. Ingrid
That's just silly... once wood is carborized it won't decompose, the
organisms in the soil won't touch it.... bury a bag of charcoal and come
back in a hundred years, it'll still be just as you left it... even the
slantiest foreheaded neanderthals knew that carborizing preserved their
wooden tools. And since the OP speaks about living in a city what you
suggest is probably highly illegal. Folks here in the boonies burn stumps
during winter all the time when there's a good covering of snow, but the
stumps have been pulled from the ground and heaped up with other debris in
the middle of a large field to do a controlled burn until all that remains
first you got to kill it. if you don't, after the stump is removed,
all the widespread roots will send up shoots all over the place. i
haven't done it myself, but i think something like roundup poured
into half inch holes drilled all over it is the way to go.
then if you want to rot out the stump, you can get stuff via home
depot or lowes or wherever that does the job; that i have experience
with. it's a powder, again you pour it into those half inch holes let
it soak. it digests the lignin (what makes it wood) over a period of
several months, maybe even a couple of years, leaving the cellulose,
so you end up with sort of a cardboardy stump which is easier to get
rid of; you can mechanically attack it as much as possible, then burn
out the rest. as the guy said, you want to rot it out first before you
burn it, not the other way around.
Yeah but these chemicals (Roundup and such, which I believe is now
illegal in some countries?) get into the ground water. From there it
gets into aquifers, streams, rivers, lakes/ponds .................
city and town drinking water supplies etc. and is not necesssarily or
fully removed by 'water treatement'! And it said to be not good for
We have our original well, dug h nearly 40 years ago. I would NOT dare
to use it for drinking/cooking today; too many neighbours splashing
around the pesticides and herbicides.
Hey, come to think; maybe that's why dogs belonging to two of my
neighbours have over the years died of cancer?????
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