My battle with moles in my lawn has continued for about 5 years. I
have not tried too many products and my best weapon against moles has
been a spring loaded trap which drives 2 sets of prongs (about 4
prongs) down into a tunnel when a mole is under the trap. I kill about
2 moles each summer with these spring loaded traps but I still get
moles in my lawn the next summer.
Has anyone tried Tomcat Mole Killer? It is a mole bait shaped like an
earthworm. You place it in an active mole tunnel and the mole eats
like it is an earthworm.
Two different times I have heard this product recommended on the home
and garden show broadcast on our local public radio station by the
Has anyone found success with this product?
You get the young ones moving out into unoccupied territory every
year...so it will be a constant battle.
What I'd like to know is, exactly what trap and any tips for setting it
up you might have to offer. I've not been successful with traps.
This year I got lucky and managed to get one with quick shovel work.
(I'd been clued to it's presence by a robin that was taking advantage
of all the worms the mole was chasing to the surface.)
I get some spots that get hazardously soft from constant mole tunnelling
(not good for someone with knee and tendon problems).
I know someone who used it, and it seemed to kill her mole. The
mole was tunnelling under her flagstones, and it was (relatively) easy
for her to lift a stone and put the bait in a tunnel, then let the stone
down to cover it.
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)
Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:13 -0500,
firstname.lastname@example.org (Pat Kiewicz) wrote:
I would recommend reading over this page:
I haven't tried the scissors trap but would like to. I just
haven't been able to find any sold in my area and really
didn't want to mail order just a trap or two. The best
harpoon style traps are about 2 feet long/tall. I have two
and I don't believe they are sold anymore. You maybe able to
find old ones at garage sales and such. The harpoons
pictured in the above link work okay, but not as well as the
old larger version. The "Nash" style choker trap is only
good under specific conditions. It works good in a loose
garden soil situation but not so good in lawn/sod. It is
really difficult to set in the latter conditions. I have
caught moles with it though in the garden.
Follow the above links instructions to set the trap over a
shallow run/tunnel. The big pushed up mounds are no good for
setting traps. Try to keep human scent away from the tunnel
area (ie don't go poking around in the tunnel with your
fingers). You should see results (sprung trap or new tunnel
around the trap :) in two days or less. If not move the trap
to a new spot. It you think you have caught a mole, stick
your finger down (a little digging with a hand trowel can
help) beside the tines (try both sides) and feel around
first for a mole. If you just pull the trap out there is a
good chance the mole will be pulled off the tines and it
will boogie off pronto. Moles are pretty tuff and quite
often are very alive yet with several harpoons rammed
If you still have some specific questions ask away (email is
okay too). I've been reasonably successful trapping moles
through the years.
Several twisting weeders and augers can help you damage the mole
tunnels without doing too much visible damage to your lawn and
garden. Moles will usually abandon damaged tunnels. These tools can
also be useful for setting up your traps or bait, if needed. You can
also use these tools to go mole hunting. But you need a lot of time
and the patience of a cat, for this endeavor.
Search for twisting weeders in your favorite search engine.
At peace with weeds and moles...
On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 15:12:48 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Moles eat grubs. Get rid of the grubs and the moles will move on to
annoy your neighbors.
In our area (NH) the primary grubs are Japanese Beetles and Milky
Spore eliminates them nicely. No JB grubs and no moles for 7 years
now from one inoculation of Milky Spore.
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 21:05:23 -0500, "Manelli Family"
There are two ways to apply it depending upon which formulation that
you buy. One is spread by a broadcast spreader just like fertilizer
or lime. The other is spread through a tube depositer in a grid
pattern. I used the latter.
I understand that the manufacturers are recommending more than one
application. I did only one and am grub free.
MS is not a short term cure. It takes a while for it to inoculate
your soil, a year or so.
Remember, Milky Spore is effective only against the Japanese Beetle
grub. If your problem is any other type of grub then Milky Spore is a
waste of time and money for you.
moles eat grubs (such as the larvae of Japanese beetles). to
eliminate the moles, you need to eliminate the food source. i
recommend treating your lawn with milky spore. it does take a
year or so to show any effect, but it will remain active for
10 or more years.
if you continue to use traps or poison bait (which i do NOT
recommend at all because any critter that may dine upon your
poisoned mole, such as a neighbor cat or a corvid will also be
poisoned), you are only prolonging your problem. as soon as
you rid yourself of one mole, another will move into it's
ecological niche. get rid of the food supply (kill the grubs)
& the moles will move elsewhere.
lee <who has 2 cats & a dog that dig up & kill moles>
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