Immersion heater element length

When the element is fitted from above it usually is the 27 inch version.

The 11 inch versions are fitted in the side and used on economy 7 setups.

Adam

I do see exactly what you mean - I'll try that. Many thanks.

Looking at the angle of insertion - as suggested by John - it does look as if the 27 inch one would fit ok. The only problem would seem to be is whether or not it would come into contact with the heat exchanger.

The whole point of the immersion (apart from economy7 top up heaters) is that it's lowest point is as low as possible to allow it to heat a full tank of water.

Now if Farmer Giles wants only to heat a third of his cylinder and has a very small bath he can fit an 11 inch immersion.

Adam

It will not come into contact with the heat exchanger.

OK so I have only swapped two immersions this year (it is a job I try to avoid).

The threads align the immersion so that it does not touch the exchanger.

Adam

Thanks for that. I'll get the 27 inch one. In the [unlikely] event that it's wrong, I suppose I can always take it back - be a nuisance, though!

Then the simplest answer would be to get one of each on the basis that you can take back the one you don't use at your leisure.

Steve

That makes perfect sense, of course, except for the fact that I don't mind taking things back to be exchanged but I don't like saying to them - "I haven't used this one, can I have my money back please?"!

Two tips. Start spraying the thread with WD40 or similar a few days before you try to remove it. Buy the heaters at Wickes who have a no quibble returns policy.

Excellent tips, thank you. I was going to Screwfix, which is about 30 miles away (we live out in the sticks!), and there is a Wickes nearby so I think I'll do what you recommend.

sometimes the length is printed on the label on the head part

All that's printed is 'NL27PT' - which does seem to suggest 27inch. I'm off to get one now, I will report back.

It's a Newlec one. The Newey and Eyre website confirms that it is 27inch. The 11inch ones are listed as 'NL11'.

Many thanks to everyone for the superb help and tips.

I was always advised not to drain the cylinder until after 'breaking the seal' of the heater. The logic being that copper cylinders are a bit like baloons - they need the internal pressure to give them strength. Is this still accepted as the best way?

Thanks OJ

There is no need to drain the cylinder at all for this. Quite often there is no means by which to drain the cylinder.

Drain or isolate the header tank and just catch any water that runs out from the immerion hole with some towels.

Adam

I had to change my bottom immersion (short) about a year ago. It had only been fitted a few years ago. No matter what I did or used, I just couldn't shift it. In the end I had to replace the whole tank. The long immersion in the top (fitted at the same time as they were cheap, but never used) was jammed solid as well. Really pxxxd me off as what was going to be a half hour's job took over three days as the plumbing had to be altered to fit the connections on the new tank.

Roger

You may even be lucky and find an isolating valve twixt header tank and cylinder. Mine has that and it makes life very easy.

Now you've got the hard bit. Unless you're lucky.....