I've had a toilet installed by some bathroom fitters a few weeks ago
and I flushed it this morning and the cistern didn't stop refilling
with the water just running into the toilet bowl. After a bit of
poking around I discovered a few things:
* There is no isolating valve on the water pipe to the cistern. Is
this required as I would expect as it's gravity fed from a huge tank
in the loft?
* They didn't connect up the overflow! (I'm assuming for now that the
toilet it replaced had one connected)
I've temporarily fixed it for now by jamming a tool into it in such a
way that it thinks the cistern is full.
I guess my question is just whether or not they should have fitted a
valve to the supply pipe, my other half bought all the bits (was her
project) and probably should have bought one of those but I would have
expected them to mention it ;)
For humour value I'll mention that I checked the other bathroom that
was fitted before we moved in, the toilet in there has a valve on the
supply line but it's so close to some tiles it's impossible to close
it as the tap handle would have to move through the tiles. Also the
heated towel rail in there has a blanking plug at the top where it
should have a plug with a bleed valve! Grr.
AFAIK there is no requirement to fit an isolating valve and in the
situation of having parts supplied by the customer, then there is a
suggestion that one is not wanted.
It is a requirement that cistern overflows give an obvious indication of
a problem so they may not be plumbed into a drain. Fitting a tundish
would meet the requirement but is not decoratively acceptable to most
people in a domestic situation.
The normally accepted solution is to plumb the overflow into the flush
pipe and then the water can be seen running into the bowl continuously.
Presumably this is what you are seeing.
It's not required - but it's sheer laziness not to fit one, they are dirt
cheap these days.
Many modern toilets overflow into the bowl so there is no need for an
external overflow. I recently completely replaced my bathroom and whereas
the old toilet had an overflow pipe going out through the wall, the new
toilet just overflows into the bowl. The new types of non-syphonic flush
mechanisms allow for this.
It's usually a simple screw, or sliding bracket, adjustment to set the water
Over the years I have fitted isolating valves to every tap, the shower
inlets, and both toilet supply pipes in my house. It's just a common sense
thing to do and means you can work on individual taps or toilets without
having to turn the entire water supply off. You could fit one yourself very
easily and there are even 'push fit' isolating valves now so no need even
for compression joints and olives.
It it's a compression fitting you should be able to slacken off the nuts at
both sides of the valve and just swivel it around and re-tighten. Turn off
the water before doing this!
There's usually a blanking plug on one side and a plug with vent valve on
the other side.
Indeed. The second flood in my son's flat was caused by mains pressure
forcing off a feed pipe to a cistern. It would have flooded a lot
slower from a tank. And we have a downstairs toilet fed straight from
mains, the main feature of which is it's damn noisy.
From your last comment it would appear that there is a problem with the
siphon, rather than overflowing. This would be unusual in a new
installation. Or that the flow into the cistern is insufficient, which in
turn would suggest that it is fed from a tank rather than the rising main.
Fitting an isolator in the feed pipe would allow you to set the feed rate at
less than the flow into the pan, but this is curing the symptom rather than
Have you tried mentioning it to the installers?
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