I am going to have my asphalt driveway removed and replaced by aconcrete driveway.The driveway is about 1000 sq ft, with some slope.I have a couple of bids already in. By code, it will be 6" at street.One contractor suggested to go with 5" instead of the typical 4" foran extra $550. Is that worth the extra expense ?I was also wondering whether I should (or not) add wire or fiber mesh.Somehow, I was told by one contractor no charge for that. Why wouldthey do it for free, and what's the benefits ?thanks.Fred.

Just going from my own research here so I'm also waiting for others to pipe in but, the mesh or wire holds the concrete together and keeps it from cracking. I'd also recommend having them add the "cuts" during the pour instead of coming back a few days later to cut the dry concrete. When I do my driveway I'll be adding either the mesh or fibre reinforcement. Possible some ash to give it some colour. As far as the extra inch of concrete this is what I figured out.1) Adding an inch of concrete doesn't really change the forming or labour involved.2) 1 Cubic Yard = $120 around here anyway3) 1 Cubic Yard @ 1" thick = 324 SQF4) so the cost of extra concrete should be about $370

concrete driveway: thickness ; mesh or not ?

May 01, 2007 46 Replies

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MDCraft General Contractor 6 years ago

replying to HotRdd, MDCraft General Contractor wrote: So sorry to disagree with you statement concerning the mesh, wire or fiberglass. It does NOT keep it from cracking. It keeps it from falling lower, creating a trip hazard between the two pieces where the crack has occurred. "Concrete is guaranteed to crack", That's on my contracts and I see on new contracts as well. The closest additive that keeps it together better and resist cracking would be the fiberglass since it is throughout the concrete mix before it's poured out into the area desired. The so called "cuts" during the pour are not "cuts" but trailed in control joints. Meaning, hopefully when the concrete cracks it will crack at the weakest place. Since the control joints are basically thinner concrete, it's allowing the crack to run inside the control joint and not be as noticeable. A "cut" joint can only be used when the concrete has dried enough for the blade to saw the concrete and rock inside the concrete and leave a nice clean edge. It's also used on concrete that is walked often or used with items moved across the floor. It's a smoother transition rather than a trialed in control joint, because it's smaller. Lastly the additional concrete thickness does change the forming expense, why you ask. A typical 2x4 is only 3.5" wide therefore the contractor has to use

2x6 which is 5.5" wide to handle the additional concrete depth as well as the pressure applied to the formed walls, as the thicker concrete is heavier or stronger side load.

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MDCraft General Contractor 6 years ago

replying to Joe, MDCraft General Contractor wrote: True, however the thickness makes a big difference on stability of the pour

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MDCraft General Contractor 6 years ago

replying to Nehmo Sergheyev, MDCraft General Contractor wrote: Just remember, steel or mesh will not help prevent the slab from failing. It will only hold the two separated pieces from the crack from falling, not failing. Fiberglass, since it is throughout the concrete mixture will assist in the pour not cracking but as in our contracts the concrete itself is "Guaranteed to Crack" when and where is the unknown. I have concrete pours that have zero cracks after 13 years of being poured. I have some pours, few thank goodness, that have cracks we are amazed as to why it cracked and how the crack actually ran.

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captlanse 6 years ago

Bob your very right...Did it for years and my son is a Civil Engineer...Lansing

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