No heat problem with my Kenmore Series 80 dryer Model 110 C60852990 (Canada)

OK, I admit defeat! I have a no heat problem with my Kenmore Series 80 dryer Model 110 C60852990 (Canada)
I have just replaced the motor for a second time since July 2012 (now Sept), because everything points to a bad centrifugal switch.
All connectors have be sprayed with Deoxit and crimped to nice tight connections.
All switches and thermostats test OK and the high limit cycle thermostat was replaced (2 purple, two red wires), but the old one was found to be still OK.
The heater element is OK, measuring 5 ohms.
The problem is that when I replaced the original motor, everything worked just ONCE! Nice hot element on the normal Hi cotton setting. Next time I tried it....No heat!
So the voltage to the heater is 120 VAC on the switch/thermal fuse/timer side. But the voltage from the centrifugal switch/motor side is only 24 VAC, instead of 120VAC to make the 240 VAC needed for HI heat. I removed this replacement motor, tested and cleaned everything again and reinstalled it and got the same result - worked the initial time, then low voltage on the motor side to the heater on the next test.
Now I just installed the brand new motor and NADA. Didn't even work once. Still only 24 VAC from the centrifugal switch side! What am I missing here?
Both new motors tested OK for the 4-6 resistance (with centrifugal switch pushed out) at 2.8 ohms, but the 4-5 resistance is only 1.5 ohms (low) - tested that way straight out of the box for the 2nd new motor!
It can't be two bad motors in a row....... can it?
Please hair is falling out with frustration.
Jeff (aka Dr. Fix-it)
in the boonies of Huron County.
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 I just went a tested the voltage across the heater wires again after a couple of days and found 240VAC!
So I tested all cycles and then back to the Normal hi heat cycle and had 240 VAC again. So good. Let's attach the heater.
Nada - ho heat at all. The coil did not get hot so I can't imagine a thermal cutoff problem. So I guess the heater IS bad. Tested the resistance of the heater and now found Zero ohms. Before it was 5 ohms. No apparent break in the coil. Now the fun part. I disconnected the heater and checked the voltage again and now only get 96 volts. Can't get the 240 again. This is what I found originally when I saw the heater work fine ONCE and then not.
So I just ordered a new heater and we will see if that fixed the problem. Still can't explain why I don't see 240 VAC every time across the heater wires.
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