stain for plywood cabinets

[Eigenvector]

This is probably more appropriate for the woodworking group, but I'll cast my line out and see what happens.

The finish on my cabinets is a badly worn varnish. I say varnish because its a flaky yellowish crystaline substance from the 1960's over plywood. After removing the varnish from the cabinet boards I notice that the cabinet isn't a natural wood color so I'm assuming it was stained. My question is what kind of a finish would be best for wood like this?

It's not like its raw plywood or something, it has a nice hard smooth finish so being unfamiliar with plywood construction I can only assume its a hardwood laminate or similar material.

I guess my question is, if I restain it, do I need to apply varnish to seal or are there better alternatives? What if I like the original color and simply want to seal/complete the finish from weathering (hands, kitchen smoke, traffic, etc..)

I'm used to working with linseed oil, I use it to refinish my gunstocks, but something tells me I don't want something that flammable in the kitchen.

[Charles Schuler]

There are many ways to go. Take some photos and go to a good paint store and get some recommendations. Things to consider:

1/ cost 2/ durability 3/ ease of preparation and application (can a DIYer get a good result) 4/ smell (some modern finishes are just awful)

[Ero_Fun]

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Linseed oil would not be flammable once cured,but is still a poor choice for a kitchen. I'd go with a polyurethane as it is easy to clean.

[DZIN]

[Eigenvector]

I've removed the varnish from my test piece (a while back not today), Citrus Strip seemed to do a perfectly adequate job, so whatever's on there can't be too tough. I'll go with a polyeurothane as was suggested and keep the original color.

[gfretwell]

I second that. They make low VOC poly so it won't stink up the house. My kitchen is all either stainless or poly over wood (including the countertops) They are bulletproof and everything comes off with a wet sponge.

As for the stain, try a small out of the way spot but I bet the only way you get a decent result is to strip it completety. Be aware if it is a hardwood overlay you will be down to the base wood in about a silly millimeter so sand carefully. In the end you might end up with a laminate on it.

[Malcolm Hoar]

Some suggestions...

Use a good quality, full gloss, oil based poly. Apply with a good foam brush -- the Wooster's sold at Lowes are excellent and very inexpensive. Stir (don't shake) the poly and thin it with mineral spirits if that helps.

Apply about 4 coats, waiting about 24 hours for each one to dry. Sand *very* lightly between coats with 400 grit.

After the final coat wait a few days for a full cure. Then, if you want to knock down the plastic-like look, rub the new finish with 0000 steel wool and some good quality wax. It will make it silky smooth but not glossy.

If you're careful and patient, you'll have a really professional looking finish. I used this protocol on some beaten-up kitchen cabinets and the final result was simply wonderful. The striping/sanding is a pain but everything else is pretty quick and easy to do right.

[Father Haskell]

Card scraper did the job for me last set of kitchen cabinet fronts I was paid to strip. Prepare to file the edge every 2 minutes (no hook needed), but even then, it's faster than anything short of a hot lye bath.

[Father Haskell]

Use poly or alkyd enamel paint. Prob with linseed is it takes about a year to fully cure, during which time it'll absorb whatever cooking fumes you have floating about your kitchen.