I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets and I'd really like to spray
a finish on them. Plus, I'd really like to get into spraying in general. I
had a nice talk with Jeff Jewitt today mostly about HVLP conversion guns.
The key piece of data I was missing, however, was the CFM of my existing
compressor. After getting home and looking at it, I still don't know. I've
had the thing a lot longer than I've been woodworking and it wasn't anywhere
near the top of the line then. The operator manual I have doesn't have the
specs as it relates to CFM, but I'm not real hopeful. It's a Coleman Black
Max 20 gal/5HP single-stage, direct drive model. Unless someone knows
different, I'm betting it's in the 4-6CFM range, which isn't really going to
get the job done, spraying-wise (AFAIK).
So, I'm open to suggestions. Other than spraying, there's really nothing
pushing me to replace the compressor. If I get a compressor with enough CFM
to do the job plus a decent gun, am I going to be getting into turbine HVLP
rig range price-wise?
Jeff often recommends the PC 6025 as a good compressor for most spraying. Add
the price of one of these to one of Jeff's guns and compare it to the price of
HVLP turbine units he sells. Oh yes, for the compressor option don't forget to
include the price of a regulator and a couple of filters. The price of a
coalescing filter made me go for the turbine. If you plan to spray mainly latex
paint go with the compressor and the appropriate gun. Cheers, JG
On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 00:40:15 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
You might be surprised. Unless you're shooting the entire kitchen set
of cabinets in one, non-stop run, your compressor will probably have
enough capacity to handle that project. Since the HVLP guns run at a
lower pressure, you have all that overhead (40-120psi) to go through
before the pressure to the gun gets low. A 2-minute break between
sprays will likely rebuild it.
As a test, get the gun, set the pressure, and pull the trigger. Note
how long it takes for the compressor to kick in, and then how long it
takes to deplete the tank below the minimum gun pressure. I'll bet
it's 6 or 7 minutes. Spraying what you can get to shouldn't take that
You can add extra capacity by buying another air tank. I keep a couple
of 5-gallon tanks handy and use them away from the compressor as spare
air. To increase capacity, I'll just leave the coupler in when I fill
the tanks. I do this for blowing out the shop. That takes a lot of air
at the highest pressure. Check the Schucks/AutoZone/etc. ads for
tanks. They're on sale for $20 quite often. Keep one in your trunk for
flat tires when you're not spraying. They're handy. I ran my brad
nailer from one when I put up new soffit panels. It's good for 50+
shots (with a regulator.)
If you turn the United States on its side,
everything loose will fall to California.
I recently bought a Husky 17 gal compressor and matching HVLP gun from
HD. The gun needs somewhere between 5-6 CFM, which this compressor
I have been spraying a lot of trim boards with it, and it is doing a
good job. Paid under $300 for both including tax.
I know there are much better setups, but this was a good first purchase
for me to start spraying.
I would be surprised if that gun ($79, I think) wouldn't work with your
Don't know for sure which gun you mean buy I have
the conversion gun with a 2 qt container (same gun
as the 1qt). I would say it is lousy for latex,
atomizes ok, but is so slow it will drive you
crazy. It works very well for spraying oil based
enamel so I don't doubt it would work well for
anything less viscous (just about anything except
The secret to every good spray gun! It doesn't matter what they look like
on the outside, but inside - in the cup, in the orifices, in all of the
inside parts and pieces, it matters a lot. I keep mine clean on the outside
as well, just because I do, but you can find paint shops all across America
with guns that are a visible testimony to every kind and color of paint that
has ever been shot through them. But... the insides of those guns will be
very clean. The number one problem with guns that won't throw a good fan,
or that drip, or that won't atomize, or won't regulate the rate - all come
down to the gun not being clean - always. The second most common problem is
with oilers in the line. Paint does not like oil in the air line. Oil your
air tools at the inlet - not in the air line.
I think I'll probably give it a shot. Do you have any thoughts on the type
of conversion gun? Gravity feed vs. pressurized pot? What kind of
filter/regulator should I look for?
the pressure pot allows the gun to be used at different angles, which
is very handy. think about being able to aim up and down while spraying
here's the filter/regulator I use:
I took the lubricator off of it. it works fine for me shooting water
I called Jeff Jewitt back today and decided to go with a Walcom Slim S.
It's a gravity feed unit. I might have been able to shop around a little
more, but I figure being able to talk to Jeff if I have a problem is worth
something. I'll see how my current setup works when I get the gun.
Thanks for your help.
On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 22:28:28 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ouch, $260 for the gun and $96 for each needle/aircap set? Since you
need one for latex (home stuff), one for lacquer (projects), etc., it
can add up quickly. But I guess that having a pro handy for questions
can be invaluable. Let us know how you like it.
As I said, I'm a total novice, so I'm putting a value on access to Jeff's
experience. Beyond that, I have no interest in spraying latex, so one
needle/cap setup should suffice (the gun price includes one needle/cap
On Wed, 04 Jan 2006 23:28:05 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Got a blade? Cut the end off the rubber hose and install a barbed
fitting and female quick-disconnect.
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