Building a deck and I have the need to notch some 6x6 cedar posts that I can
slide a 2x6 in from the side. I don't think can use a Dado blade on my
radial arm saw, so are there any other ideas that would make this easier?
Well, first off, most radial arm saws *will* accomodate dado sets, so you
might want to check into that a little further. Why do you doubt that you can
use one on yours?
Anyway, even if you can't put a dado set on your RAS, you can achieve the same
effect by repeated crosscuts. You can use the saw to remove all of the
material, but it takes a while. I'd make one crosscut at each end of the dado,
and one about every 1/2" to 3/4" in between, then chisel out the stuff in
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
I probably built at least 300 modules out of pine one by stock on the radial
Almost all of them had dadoes. All of them were cut on a radial arm saw.
Each module had at least ten dadoes. some of them over fifty dadoes. Figure
about 4,000 dadoes says you can cut dadoes on a radial arm saw.
I have also cut dadoes in a wide variety of other stock, including 6 X 6
I prefer a good stack dado set over the wobble type. Just remember to
nibble at your cuts. Big dado cuts can end in disaster. Easy does it. Take
it slow and easy. Be patient and pull the saw slowly through the stock.
The radial arm saw is made for exactly this kind of work.
Timber framers do this all the time with a circular saw & a wide chisel.
They call it card decking.Set your saw to the exact depth of the dado then
two careful cuts at each side of the dado, then repeated cuts about 1/4-1/2
apart, then hit them a glancing blow with a hammer. Most of them will break
& you can push them out with your hand. Then clean it up with a chisel &
hammer using it bevel down.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: Notching posts
Sorry I haven't tried putting the dado in the saw yet I just assumed that it
wouldn't work. I have the 12" dewalt sliding compound mitre saw so I guess
I'll pull the blade out and see if the Dado will fit. Unfortunately I only
have the "Wobble" type of dado.
skill saw is best as other posters stated, set blade depth then cut ur
marks then repeated cuts between marks...as many as u want, then snap
off pieces with ur hand. pull back blade guard...BE CAREFUL!!! and use
the saw to "sweep" between marks using the blade to clean out
remnants. Done it lots and it works faster than a chisel with about
the same result...it ain't a piano!
OK, here's a note to which you should pay very close attention:
A Compound Miter Saw IS NOT a Radial Arm Saw, despite their similarities.
A compound miter saw is NOT designed for dado work.
A radial arm saw is.
Back to your regular programming.
And a dado set very likely will indeed NOT fit, and you should NOT try, even
with a wobble dado.
Best bet then is the multiple-crosscut procedure followed by hammer & chisel,
as described several times by myself and others.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
YOU DO NOT HAVE A RADIAL ARM SAW!!!
Putting dadoes on a little, baby sliding compound miter saw is suicidal!!
One is a big saw on a stand that takes up a whole wall of the shop. The
other is a little, portable saw that you can throw in the back of the truck
and drive it to the job.
Get your terms right. There will be a considerable reduction in guts and
gore if you don't confuse these two very different machines.
If you want something really............exciting!, in the '60's Craftsman
sold a dado set designed to be used on a 7 1/4" circular saw. I have the
catalogue from my dad around somewhere but I can't find it right now.
For framing jobs like this the field expedient is to make a series of
kerfs with your hand held circular saw, blade set to the proper depth (1.5"
for 2X lumber), leaving thin (maybe 1/8") ridges of wood that can be knocked
out with a hammer. If necessary clean up with a chisel or rabbet plane.
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
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