New planer - advice before I use it?

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Only a little, as you shouldn't be using the planer much except at the very begining of a project. An we're only talking about 1 1/2 to 2". What I'll do when I've got a large project strarting up is joint the plane all my stock and I"ll have 2 extra pieces of stock 18-24 inches long and those are the first and last pieces thru the planer before I change the cut depth. Mark them or use a different material so that you know which is what.
One thing to bear in mind that I missed before and I don't think anyone caught...you didn't mention a jointer, so that should be your next purchase, I think. A planer will not flatten nor straighten lumber...a jointer will.
Mike
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wrote:

until I sell or give away the RAS and bench TS...
I've made an adjustable "jointing fence" for the TS from ideas ripped off from 2 or 3 wREC'ers web sites...(thanks Morris) I think that will get me by as long as I'm using lumber yard stock..
mac
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I wouldn't be too quick to sell the RAS, Mac. I find it to be one of my most used saws for cut offs. You can lose the bench top TS, for sure.
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I got it a few years ago at a garage sale and fixed it up.... It was probably worth more than the $50 I paid for it, but not much, and the move down here and months of no use (while waiting for electricity) and getting banged around haven't helped it...
Looking at redoing the table, cleaning and aligning everything and all the other wish & prayer stuff involved with a RAS, I'd rather have the vacant space in the carport...
Funny, most of us say we need a bigger shop... I never thought that a 40' x 15' carport might be a bit small...
mac
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On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 09:20:06 -0700, mac davis

You've gotten good advice, but I'll ditto the short board ban. Tried to "cheat" a short board through once. Bruise hand healed fairly well in about ten days.
Frank
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wrote:

The manual says min. 14"...
My brother is supposed to be posting a picture for me of a sled that he uses???
mac
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"IF" during use you ever loose power to the planer, "turn the planer off" and remove the wood before the power comes back on or before you plug it back in. If the blades comes to a stop against the wood they may not spin when the motor comes back on and the blade drive belt will burn up. DAKMHIKT
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wrote:

power...
Last night, the power went off 3 times within a few hours... usually for maybe a min. or so, but enough to really think about your tip!
mac
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I have 4 major tools, a 10" circular saw with 6" planer, a band saw, an 8" planer thicknesser, a 10" disk sander, and a router/circular saw table. All have magnetic switches, AAMOF I sometimes cut the main feed instead of the individual switches.
When I was in the UK the power was never cut but now it goes out every time it rains. The ease and safty of the magnetic switches makes the cuts trivial if anoying. and you never have to worry (or remember) to switch off in time.
so my recomendation is invest in one or more Mag Switches
--
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wrote:

Where did you buy your 110 volt magnetic switches?
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Sorry as I lived in and will live in the 90% of the world that uses 240 volts and they came with the machines as standard I am not sure. FWIW even the one that is over 30 years old.
I may be using the wrong term. The way they work is that If the power to the tool is cut they switch off. Otherwise known as NVR Switches
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Light-Duty-NVR-Switch-21280 .htm
On the above3 it is named a magnetic switch.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Emergency-Stop-NVR-Switch-4 52985.htm
16A or about 3.5Kw
I would guess that you can get them for 110 volts
--
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wrote:

You are using the correct term for the U.S.. Most better 220 volt power tools have magnetic switches. Because every 110 volt power tool that I have seen has a mechanical switch I was wondering where you may have gotten yours. But, since your tools are 220 volt, that answers that. ;~) I have never seen a 110 volt variety.
Thanks anyway.
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Leon wrote:

Grainger has a number of contactors with 110V coils. For an example see:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5B093
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Grizzly also has some http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q0v+magnetic+switch
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Great, thanks.
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Nova wrote:

At $185 a pop, i can see where these aren't a fast seller...
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
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mac davis wrote:

What? The first thing to do is turn it on.
- S
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mac davis wrote:
| Being too old and lazy to reinvent the wheel, I'd appreciate and | tips, warnings, "don't do's", etc. from you in the group that use | them.
Bolt the planer to the stand. Lock the casters. Turn the power on...
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto /
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Morris Dovey wrote:
> Bolt the planer to the stand. Lock the casters. Turn the power on...
Repeating what others have said, take light cuts and start with boards that are longer than are required.
SNIPE HAPPENS.
Lew
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well, 2 outta 3 aren't bad... lol
I guess I should at least make sure it runs..
mac
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