mounting a ceiling air filter

[Andrew Barss]

I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also have a dust collector). There's not a lot of info out there on positioning, and some of it is contradictory. Grizzly recommends mounting it diagonally in a squarish shop (which mine is), toward one corner. The shop may not be big enough to matter, but any advice would be appreciated.

The TS is central. The lathe is perpendicular to the north wall. The BS and planer and jointer are on casters, and can go anywhere.

One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the door, which is in the SE corner. I can't figure out the best arrangement for positioning the air filter with respect to the air outlet.

Thanks,

Andy Barss

[Upscale]

I'd mount it over or near whatever makes the most dust or since many of your machine tools are mobile, over the area where you usually use them.

[Martin H. Eastburn]

The concept was flow in the room. It draws air through it and will work the room better that way. Creating side currents.

Straight on might leave voids of dead air.

Temp mount it and do a smoke test. See how it draws a smokey pot from all parts - find dead parts - rotate or move and test again.

I'm sure they had to defend their stance that it worked and proved the use.

Test yourself. It is in your best interest.

Mart> I have a JDS air filter/cleaner which I want to mount in my shop (I also

[mac davis]

I've had mine in a couple of places in the shop.. I find that air flow is key.. Best place for me is with the intake end in the center of the room with the exhaust end pointed towards which ever wall is farthest from it.. Either end too close to a wall or corner messes with the whole shops airflow..

Keep in mind that you don't want the intake near a machine, that's what the dust collector is for.. The air filter is for what's airborne..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Upscale]

Good point. Shows what I know about air cleaners.

[Andy Dingley]

Dust, not chips.

There's some mileage to putting it near a router table, or workbench, because that makes fine dust. A table saw makes coarser stuff that falls by gravity, or is sucked up by the cyclone (most workshops need a cyclone before a ceiling filter).

Mine's currently near the lathe, because lathe sanding throws a lot of dust, and it throws it high. I also have a downdraught sanding table to deal with finishing work at source.

Mostly though, don't put it near the door to the outside, or anywhere near a draught. No point in trying to clean up the great outdoors.

[Swingman]

Mine, the same one you have, is mounted 7' up and mid way between my workbench, where most of the sanding is done, and the miter saw, which kicks up the most fine dust ... both being about 5 feet apart.

That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders and, Festool CT22e Dust Extractor. :)

[Pat Barber]

Gee....thanks for the "drive by"....

I'm still > That said, sanding dust is no longer a problem with two Festool sanders

[SonomaProducts.com]

Hello!

Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.

[Andrew Barss]

:> One factor I want to be careful about is that (a) the shop is inside the :> house, and (b) there is one air return in the shop, directly above the :> door, which is in the SE corner.

: Hello!

: Did you say the shop is in the house and the room is included in the : house air system? This seem very problematic. One would think you : would want to isolate you home air system from the shop air. If not, I : would think about adding some additional filtering on the return from : the shop or you are adding fine particulate matter to your whole : house, lungs, kids, lungs, etc.

It's actually in a guesthouse, not the main house. I have considered adding a single room air conditioner to the shop and closing off the vent to isolate the shop from the rest of the guesthouse.

-- Andy Barss

[Leon]

Now that you are actually using those sanders it should be easier to remember that you have "2" of them. ;~)

[Leon]

LOL. My super quiet Craftsman is in the attic, being super quiet and unused. Seriousely the Festool Vac is quieter than the sander. The absence of dust is the only indicator that the vac is actually running.

[Larry Jaques]

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 14:13:21 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" wrote the following:

One Filtrete HEPA filter does that for $12.95 per quarter. NOT a prob.

-- Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst. -- Lin Yutang

[mac davis]

I know this is never done, but if you RTFM you'll see that it warns not to put it near the "exit path" or something of a machine.. Best protection IMHO is: A good mask.. (do as I say, etc.) A DC to get as much as possible before it gets to the mask.. An air scrubber to get the fine stuff that the DC misses..

Followed by going over the shop with a 2.5" hose connected to the DC before the wife complains.. (My shop IS in the house)

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Swingman]

LOL ... yep, was so excited using the TS75 plunge saw for making everything but gumbo, that, even though it was duly reflected in my official shop tool inventory, I'd plumb forgot about buying the RTS 400 EQ back in December ... until I discovered that "extra" systainer the other day??!

It be Christmas deja vu, all over again, in June ... :)

Good thing, cause I really needed it at the time.

Now, I really see an overpowering need for the DTS 400 also, to complete the threeO ... don't care to ever own/use another make sander. :)

[Upscale]

Have you used the track saw to cross cut cabinet grade veneered plywood and if so, how clean was the cut? I'm wondering if I can use one of these track saws to occasionally replace the table saw with a

60 tooth carbide blade?

[Swingman]

Answered this before, and maybe even posted pictures for you(?), but yes. cabinet grade plywood is what is routinely cut with my TS75, and up until recently with exceptional results an A1 grade stock.

That said, and after cutting a lot of utility plywood with it in the interim, I did dull the blade by hitting an embedded drywall screw the other day and noticed that the cut quality had indeed degraded slightly.

That can't be blamed on the saw, and this was in a rift sawn oak, A1 plywood that has had a notoriously brittle veneer in the past that is even prone to splinter a bit with a Forrest WWII. Hell, it splinters if you drag an assembled cabinet across the work bench or floor before it's been stained/finished.

I'll simply use the blade in question henceforth for utility and rough cuts only.

... it's wise to do that in any event.

[Upscale]

If you did answer for me, then apologies for repeating myself. The only thing I'd have to decide is if I want to get the TS55 or the TS75. I'd be using it for sheet goods only and sincerely doubt I'd need the extra depth cutting capability of the TS75.

The only considering being is the larger saw (weight and handling difficulties from a sitting position) and the larger blade of the TS75 which would have several more teeth on it giving a slightly smoother cut.

[Swingman]

I felt like I needed the extra cutting capacity, and it turns out I was correct in that.

There is substantial difference in weight ... about 4lbs, IIRC. In your case, and particularly just wanting a saw to cut sheet goods, I suspect the 55 may be the better choice in saws

Leon was recently on the fence with the same issue you face. Might want to ping him and see his reasons for choosing the TS75 as he generally gives these things a good deal of thought and consideration before leaping, and rarely goes for size alone.

You will definitely be tickled with whichever one you buy. :)

[Lobby Dosser]

How do you cut sheet goods from a seated position? I'm not constrained to a seated position, but I'm also not all that damn stable when standing. AAMOF, I was replacing the screen door to the patio a while back and ended up on my back with the door on top of me! Not the kind of flailing I want to do around the TS.