Maybe a Nanner, Followup

Here's my previous posts on this subject.
I think I may have scored a nanner.

Well the neener turned out to really be a nanner. When we started to assemble it we discovered that it was missing the rip fence and rails. That's what I get for dealing with and appliance salesman and not a tool salesman. It looks like someone robbed the fence for another saw and didn't mark it as missing parts. I'm going to write a letter to Sears customer relations and see what happens sometimes the squeaky wheel gets greased in the mean time I'm looking for a fence for around $250. I've looked at the Delta T30 and the Mule Accusquare. I'm kinda leaning toward the Mule. Will let you know what happens. Jim
The local store manager called me yesterday after customer relations called him. He happened to be out of town at the time of the sale (he was familiar with the saw) he said that it had be in the warehouse sale three times and usually was marked has having no fence so it was as is. Someone had dropped the ball. Like I said I was dealing with an appliance salesman. Long story short they won't pay for a fence. I can either buy a Delta T30 at Lowe's for $150 or an Accusquare 1025 for $169 free shipping or the Accusquare 1040 for $179 free shipping. Just have to decide whether I want 25" or 40" right cut. The shop is a little limited on space. I'm leaning toward the Accusquare because of the rear clamp. The Delta seems like it wants to ride up when I was checking it out in the store for use with feather boards. I can also get Accusquare's miter gage fence attachment for $39, free shipping, and still come out ahead on the saw. We only paid $338 for it and it's replacing a 35 year old Craftsman. Jim
The follow up. I ended up buying the Accusquare which arrived Monday. I installed it yesterday was pretty easy. Just two minor problems. The front and back holes in the saw didn't match so I have to enlarge one hole in the back rail. I also have to get a couple of metric bolts to finish the installation. Accusquare didn't have the Model 1040 fence (40"right cut) in stock and offered to ship me the Model 1050 (50" right cut) at no extra cost. Since shop space is limited I waited for the 1040. They're also sending me one more end cap for the fence. It's a great fence. I'm going to order the left hand tape for the saw from Sears since they're the cheapest. I set the fence up for 26" right cut and 22 3/4" left cut.
A question what does one use on the table saw top to slicken it up? I know you don't use wax. Norm mentioned on one of his programs once but I've forgotten what it was. Thanks, Jim
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You can use Top-Cote which is made for the purpose of rust prevention and friction reduction. It is better at rust protection than it is at friction reduction.
You can also absolutley wax the top and many people do. Typically use a car wax but make SURE it does NOT have silicon. Silicon will ruin finishes all day.
One old trick is to scub it down with a synthetic pad or other method to get all rust gone and sort of ploished, then polish it with a hand full of waxed paper. I would worry a bit of the waxed paper uses silicon but if it can be determined it doesn't, it is probably a good approach.

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"SonomaProducts.com" wrote
One old trick is to scub it down with a synthetic pad or other method to get all rust gone and sort of ploished, then polish it with a hand full of waxed paper.
********************************
Reminds me of grade school and wax paper. We used to take the wax paper used to wrap our sandwiches and put them under out butts and go down the big metal slide. After a number of us did this, that slide got very slick.
Then some unsuspecting kid would get on there and shoot out from the end at a high rate of speed. Which usually meant that they would tumble for a distance. They would cry and holler, this would get to the pricipal and we would all get into trouble.
Ahhhhh....., memories.
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James wrote:

pressure spray can (From Harbor Fright). I spritz a little on and wipe down with paper towels. If there is a stain I use a green abrasive pad before wiping. This is cheap and works for me. There are more expensive ways to go and I'm sure you will hear about them from those that use them.
Wax is fine but stay away from silicone on woodworking machinery.
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Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
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TreWax. Paste. Silicon free. Works like a charm for cheap.
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Robatoy wrote:

What about Johnsons Paste Wax? I looked on the can but it don't list ingredients. Jim
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James wrote:

It's what I've been using for about the last 25 years.
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Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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...and I use car wax. It's hard and slick. What you gotta watch out for are waxes designed for floors (there is a refinishing wax I use which states on the can "for floors"...I do not use that on my table)...reason is that those waxes are not as "slick" as other varieties; for good reason! Got this tip from an olde cabinetmaker. There's a product out from Bostik, called "Topcoat" and it's OK for a quick hit, but for me wax is best.
cg
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Doug Miller wrote:

Thanks, I've been using JPW on the of my DeWalt planer so now I'll be using it on the table saw. Jim
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