I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house), and
would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular ink pen or a
sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for something to add an
inscription and still use shellac?
On Apr 28, 1:40 pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
Oddly, I've done just this last week - would have provided photo's but
the item has gone now.
I used a Bic Biro pen (but I suppose any ball-point will do), scrawled
what I had to on it, let it dry properly (doesn't take long), then
*dabbed* a layer of shellac over the inked parts, and dabbed further
out, letting the shellac fade - feathering? Not putting more shellac
on the pad, just letting it run out, if you like.
When this had dried out, I applied the shellac as normal. It seemed to
work OK for me. No doubt someone with more experience (this is the
only time I've done this) will be along soon. Obviously it'll pay you
to experiment with an off-cut first!
Cheers & good luck.
Use an engraving tool fill script black or very dark polish , flat
back till flush then over polish with your shellac
Use a fountain pen with walnut stain is another technique i have seen
If your going down the ink path use black indian ink and do a test
patch first on a bit of scrap
The padding method didn't smudge the ink too badly, but it's still not
what I was looking for. Maybe with several tries, I could get something
acceptable (I just used a regular ball-point.)
Maybe a light spray of shellac would work better.
On Apr 30, 10:02 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
Could be. What would you use to spray it with? I've never really
sprayed anything before (other than scratches on a car with a rattle
I suppose one of those little airbrush kits from an art shop won't be
too much. I'd love to see how this turns out - might have to try it
for myself in the week.
I've got a cheap air brush and a small spray booth. It's an external mix
that uses a lid and siphon tube set up, so if something doesn't work all
I've got to do is clean those parts.
The trick is getting the paint mixture thin enough and clean enough to
spray. I'll probably have to thin down the 2# cut of the Sealcoat and
Shellac is available in a spray can as well, but probably wouldn't be
economical in quantity.
Look for a paint marker. They come in a variety of colors, widths, and
tip shapes, in oil, water color, acrylic, and probably other
An office supply place (Staples, etc) will generally have white, and
maybe silver or gold.
A craft store (Michaels, Jo-Ann, etc) will generally have more colors
and one or two brands.
If you've got a Dick Blick near you <http://www.dickblick.com they'll
have a wide range of options.
Another option would be to use an artists' brush and whatever paint you
A third option would be to get some inkjet decal paper and make a decal.
Whatever you go with, test on a scrap before you commit your good wood.
Yeah, paint marker pens. They used to be very popular for junk yard
car parts. Once they dry they are bullet proof. I have always used the
silver as it shows up well on everything. Yes, they have them at
Michael's Craft stores. Technique: Buy, kind of pump the tip to get
paint flowing. Use like a pen. Put cap on pen. Wait 6 months to use
again. realize the pen has dried out. Buy a new one and repeat.
If the paint marker is fine enough, it'll probably work well. I don't have
a lot of room to write (about half a business card lenghtwise), so need
something that'll give me a crisp line.
What about gel pens?
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
The gel pen didn't work. Maybe it needed much longer to dry (they're
usually smudge free within minutes), but the alcohol took it right off.
I'll keep going down the list. I'll look at paint markers when the stores
open in the morning.
On 30 Apr 2011 09:05:31 GMT, Puckdropper
2 more thoughts: have a branding iron made (depending on how many of
these you're doing), or borrow a pyrographic pen set from a buddy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrography The pens and tips are much
smaller than soldering irons allowing for deft and dainty moves.
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
I've done calligraphy on paper and engraved in rock.
My count of trials with wood is one. It worked fine
but I didn't use ink out of durability concerns in the
You haven't said what kind of letter forms will
be involved in your inscription. That would specify
qualifications. If you have a wood surface that
won't have bleeding considerations from the grain
and want block letter forms, look at the metal nib
pens with permanent ink. Just don't make the
mistake of pressing harder than you have to.
Covering text rendered with them and said ink
should be easy.
Otherwise, if sun exposure isn't a threat and
your wood is softer, try the fiber (marker)
calligraphy pens. Once dried, shellac sealing
ought to work, though since ink compositions
vary by manufacturer, trial is sensible.
The paint pens I've tried didn't boast crisp
line definition. Maybe better models deny
that. If you find them, an announcement would
A professional effort wouldn't be exorbitant.
Call your local art-supply store or art support
group/association and eventually you'll have
Write *on* the shellac.
1. couple of shellac coats
2. sand with fine paper where you want to write (for tooth)
4. couple more coats of shellac (if you want)
Note: don't use ink that alcohol will dissolve.
What I've done is to print whatever it is, on paper with a laser
printer, then cut out and "glue" the paper down with the finish. The
paper usually becomes transparent when soaked in the solvent, but you
might need to play with some scrap wood and different papers in case
it shows through. Laser printing is a must as the solvents in most
finished will cause ink jet printing to bleed. Yet another way is to
use the special transfer paper made for making printed circuits. You
print on the paper with a laser printer or copier, then use an iron to
transfer the image.
On Apr 28, 7:40 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
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