I still advise against trying to use the dryer circuit for any 120v loads but if your dust cyclone is 240v you could just use a hard service cord, sized the same as the manufacturer recomendation and put a dryer plug on it.
I'll remember that. Thanks!
-- Mark
"> Wilson -- Your writing shows you know something about electricity. Let
Questionable report. Who knows what he means. Someone talked about two wire wiring, which is pretty common. I wouldn't worry about it except in a kitchen or bath, where upgrading could be worthwhile. There should be a good ground rod at the box.
None. Did someone suggest it? Most such tools are plastic. Do you have something else?
Are you talking about the duct ground for spark suppression? No, the TS won't isn't a ground if not plugged in. Interestingly, it may have enough leakage through a concrete floot to suppress static buildup, even if not plugged in. This is spooky stuff and explosions are rare, but it's easy to do the grounding and be sure.
True, but so what? If it isn't running it can't build up static???
No. Any sort of ground will do it. If you have a neutral connected to the body (3 wire cord), just take the static collecting wire to the frame of the DC.
I like someone's idea of the subpanel to serve the dryer and shop. You could mount it at the dryer location and run wires to outlets in the shop. Check the feed. It's probably 10 ga for a dryer. That's rated at 30 A, but can do 40 in tool service, although that's not "legal". I think the 30 A main we discussed, either in the main box or in the sub will do you fine. I don't remember if your DC is 120 or 240, but if it will run on a house 120V circuit you would have the 240 V circuit for big tools. Otherwise, you'll have to do both on 240, which is probably OK.
I looked back and find your question ambiguous. Are you running the saw on
120 from the dryer outlet, or 240? I'm sure the vac is 120. If you don't have the DC, just put the saw on 240 and you're there. Rigging the panel and a couple of plugs will be nice for you and make you ready for a big planer! Don't forget, you can also put in a 120V 30A circuit if you need it for a tool that won't go on 240.Good luck and let me know if you need help, Wilson
Talk to a real electrician or go to Home Depot/Lowes/whatever and read a book on wiring. You only need three wires for a 220V circuit.
Modern dryer circuits have four wires because a dryer has both a 110V motor and controls and a 220V heating element.
Your dust collector only needs 220V with no 110V. Your dust collector will work fine if you make an extension cord with a dryer plug on one end.
Brian Elfert
Really you only need two. The third is a safety ground.
Brian Elfert wrote:
Not quite. The four wire outlet has two hot wires (110 VAC each), a neutral, and a ground. The older 3 wire plugs lack the ground. Even with the 3 wire outlet, you can get 110VAC from connecting to either hot wire, and the neutral.
I have avoided saying it but this is "hold your nose" legal if you put it on a GFCI.
As an owner of a 1962 house, I can tell ya that I had NO grounds connected at any outlet, nor a ground pin on any outlet. On the rare occasion when I run out of projects, I rewire the outlets in a room up to the current code. Fortunately, my wires did have a ground wire, but it was never connected. At least I have copper wires, unlike some coworkers.
My washer is now connected to a GFCI, but my drier still has the 3 wire outlet, and consequently, it isn't grounded.
Since you bring it up, have you checked to see if a GFCI is rated for a 1HP+ motor? If you don't have water in your shop, why would you want a GFCI?
The code says all 120v 15 or 20a receptacles in garages, unfinished basements or out buildings shall be on GFCI.
More to the point of my post, it also says when there is no ground present the only way you can use a 3 prong 120v receptacle is with a GFCI. (No a GFCI does NOT require a ground to function)
As for motor loads, the code requires GFCI protection on most spas and they usually have big motors. I have GFCI protection on all 120v circuits in my shop with no problems.
Well, dammit, I didn't know that! :-) Found this online: "According to the National Electrical Code, all garage-wall outlets must be GFCI outlets or standard outlets protected by GFCI circuit breakers"
More info I found online: Workshops - Of special interest to the DIYer. Your workshop, when in a garage or outbuilding with a floor at or below grade, must have GFCI protection on the 120 - volt receptacles. A 1999 change to the code dropped the word "unfinished" in reference to workshops and storage areas in garages and accessory buildings. So don't think that just because your shop has a finished floor it meets the code. Most workshops have a concrete floor, which tends to hold moisture, which increases shock potential and isn't considered "finished" for the code. Basement workshops follow the rules for basements. Two hundred twenty - volt outlets aren't specifically addressed in this part of the code. However, in a workshop setting they're generally for large machinery like table saws. Because the outlets will not accept a standard 120 - volt appliance cord, they fit the "not readily accessible" exception.
You just need to put a receptacle GFCI in the first outlet in each branch circuit, connect the outgoing wires to the "load" terminal. If you have "home run" each receptacle that won't be as easy and the breaker route may be an easier, if more expensive, solution. From a real world perspective, the most important outlets are the ones that you will be using line powered hand tools on. "Fixed in place machines" with line cords safely routed out of the way are significantly safer than a hand tool that could have a damaged cord, missing ground pin or whatever. There is an exception to the GFCI rule that would cover the fixed in place equipment if there are no other accessible outlets on that circuit. You are also more likely to be sitting on the concrete floor when you are using that hand held tool. This can provide a very dangerous fault path through your body and that is why the GFCI rule was implimented.
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