It would keep clean, no nasty screwdrivers, pencils and chisels lying around. :-)
It would keep clean, no nasty screwdrivers, pencils and chisels lying around. :-)
If I had my way, mine would be there, too -- and I'm sure I'm not the only one. Hand tools are quiet enough, and the temperature and humidity are near perfect.
Make a guide block and clamp it to the workpiece.
Upscale, considering your problem with exerting adequate down force when drilling, have you every tried any type of self-feeding drill bits? Most are more of a carpenter tool rather than a woodworking tool, the quality of the hole will be more like a spade bit than a forstner, but maybe they would be useful to you. Something like an Irwin Speedbore. There are several other variations. (Still won't help with keeping the hole plumb, though)
Part of the problem is that I've had self feeding bits get away from me and unless they're rigidly controlled, they drive themselves into the wood like a screw, especially soft wood. I have to be pretty careful when drilling. Just another irritation to experience when you can't bring your full body weight to bear controlling a tool. I do have a set of Irwin Speedbore spade bits and when using them I drill a bit, retract and drill a bit more. Seems to work and usually, they don't pull away from me.
I also have a very basic small benchtop drill press. If the plunge router set up doesn't work as hoped, I'll use the drill press and spade bit to drill the holes.
Poppcosh is an exclamation of joy Poppycock means nonsense - which is what I think you meant
Sorry, Like Minds..
They are perfectly safe in a hand held drill. You can even drill on an angle because of the support around the outside. They are just not a very fast cutting bit, and don't clear chips well. My maple slab is
2.75" thick. A forstener is slow.. Also with my router I made a base plate to > >
I'm full of poppycosh, now that I've been made aware the need to pay more attention to my smell-chequer. Thank you. :-)
Time to splurge for a Festering router & shop vac. If you can't afford it, I'm sure Rob will be glad to give you the toys^H^Hols as he now has a surfeit of them. :-)
Luigi
Already have the Festering shop vac. Considered the Festering router, but at the current retail price of $910, it's going to have to wait.
As far as Rob goes, I've invited him several times to drop by for a beer. So far, he's resisted. I think he knows I'm only interested in the machinery he has. :)
--------------------- Just curious, what does a Milwaukee 5625 set you back these days?
Lew
I'm following this thread because I've had the same question in my head, but I don't have the bench yet so I didn't ask.
IMO, you are assuming a degree of hand drill skill and/or consistency that I am not certain is in my grasp. This will be my *first* workbench, after all. The results might work fine, but how would I know that at this point?
This question has bumped up suddenly, as I unexpectedly came into a fair number of hand tools that I didn't expect to be in my budget for several more years. Now I need a solid surface and a whole lot of practice.
As for the exactness of the holes, I know how the demons in my head work. The more precise the tool, the less likely I am to decide it is to blame.
Lesson 1 (or 2): Drill a practice hole. Related suggestions include: do a test cut, stain/finish a scrap piece, build a mock-up model. Try to avoid surprises and have fun! :)
Bill
Drill a pilot hole first, 1/8" or whatever size works best with your auger's lead screw. The auger will track dead on with the pilot.
$270
They work great - drill on an angle or through odd stuff.
I like the aggressive ones - those with teeth edges and a hook while the standard ones are knife edges with a hook that cuts.
I use a 3/8" electric hand drill and once a 1/2" hammer drill in drill only.
Mart> >
I think the root of poppycosh must be Poppy hyperbolic cosine. :-)
Mart> >>
"Upscale" wrote in news:BuRDo.12287$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe15.iad:
Upscale,
Here is Southern California apartments known as live/work units are now becoming popular in urban areas. I did some design work in one that had a rollup door on the ground level with the living areas above. The building has elevator service to get from one level to another. One such place I worked on you can see at this website.
Steve
Perhaps contacting a real estate agent and telling them you want a live/work unit.
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