They work great - drill on an angle or through odd stuff.
I like the aggressive ones - those with teeth edges and a hook
while the standard ones are knife edges with a hook that cuts.
I use a 3/8" electric hand drill and once a 1/2" hammer drill in drill only.
On 11/17/2010 5:44 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
"tiredofspam" <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in message
Was is a carbide spiral cutter or a steel one? So far I've only been able to
find steel ones (1/2"shank). Considering the number of holes I'd like to
drill, I'm concerned that a steel one will wear out or at least lose it's
edge before I'm finished.
Which is why I posted my previous mea culpa.
Given your bench is only 1-3/4" thick, a 3/4" x 2", 2 blade straight
cut router bit with 1/2" shank shouldn't have a problem clearing the
If it were 3"-4" thick, different story, but it's only 1-3/4",
Just make sure to use ac backer to eliminate tear out.
Haven't seen too many plunge routers with a 4" depth cutting ability anyway.
Of course, that's just common sense. Since I'll be using a template guide
for the router I'm considering hogging out most of each hole with a 1/2" or
so spade bit and then come along with the router to more easily finish the
holes. But, I'll try a few initial holes with the bit only and if the going
is not too difficult, I won't bother using the spade bit.
Spade bits are for electricians running romex thru floor joists, not
wood working, IMHO.
If you layout center lines on 6" centers on the fence, you will
simplify maintaining registration and speed up the process
Yup, that's going to be my preferred method as suggested by Lew. It won't
be too difficult for me to make a simple enclosure with the CT22 attached
to house the router while I cut the holes. I already have a 3/4" carbide
router bit, but it's single flute and I've long intended to buy a double
flute bit, so this is my opportunity. A pieced of hardboard used as a
template guide will round off the process.
I briefly considered using a brad point drill or perhaps a spade drill, but
since I'm unable to lean over the drill to put weight on it as well as to
easily eyeball a decent vertical entry point, my plunge router seems like
the obvious choice.
Now, all I have to do is to convince my best friend to let me "borrow" my
plunge router back from him. :)
I wasn't considering your circumstances when suggesting the drill.
However, any drill bit would produce far less dust, which was your main
Do you know anyone with a right angle drill?
I think you would be able to produce adequate down force with one of
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Upscale, considering your problem with exerting adequate down force when
drilling, have you every tried any type of self-feeding drill bits? Most
are more of a carpenter tool rather than a woodworking tool, the quality of
the hole will be more like a spade bit than a forstner, but maybe they
would be useful to you. Something like an Irwin Speedbore. There are
several other variations. (Still won't help with keeping the hole plumb,
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Part of the problem is that I've had self feeding bits get away from me and
unless they're rigidly controlled, they drive themselves into the wood like
a screw, especially soft wood. I have to be pretty careful when drilling.
Just another irritation to experience when you can't bring your full body
weight to bear controlling a tool. I do have a set of Irwin Speedbore spade
bits and when using them I drill a bit, retract and drill a bit more. Seems
to work and usually, they don't pull away from me.
I also have a very basic small benchtop drill press. If the plunge router
set up doesn't work as hoped, I'll use the drill press and spade bit to
drill the holes.
Already have the Festering shop vac. Considered the Festering router, but at
the current retail price of $910, it's going to have to wait.
As far as Rob goes, I've invited him several times to drop by for a beer. So
far, he's resisted. I think he knows I'm only interested in the machinery he
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