A friend of mine asked me to build a frame to display a map of the U.S.A. The map was given to me folded like a typical road map. The map is of higher quality and thicker paper than a typical road map.
I wish to mount the map on a piece of 1/4" hardboard and install that in a wooden frame with a piece of plexy (sp ?) glass in front. The map is about 27" wide by 18" high.
If anyone has an answer to the following two questions it would be appreciated :
How can I flatten the map in preparation for mounting. Use a normal household iron on low heat ?
What kind of glue should I use to affix the map to the hardboard, and not "wet" the map so much that it will wrinkle up etc..
I thought I had seen this done on a HGTV show, but cannot remember the manner used to adhere the paper to the hardboard backing.
I'd not mount it directly to the hardboard (it may bleed) , I'd look at mounting it on poster backing board (non-acidic) or ???? first. I'd also not iron it or glue it (guaranteed wrinkles unless you use a "specialized" adhesive used by frame shops) ) and would mount it under non-glare glass that blocks UV light (plexi will yellow and scratch) . You may want to see a frame shop for the source(s) and they can probably give you a hint or two as well...
For flattening the map, open it up, lay it on the poster board on top of the backer bard and leave it there for the day or two it takes to design.cut/build/finish the frame. It'll be flat by the time you need it.
The difference between doing it cheaply and doing it right may be a few bucks but in the long run, the product will be far better by doing it right.
't mount directly to hardboard ! Use a mounting board.
Do use a matt, so it's not in contact with the glazing.
I'd be wary of mounting it directly. Hinging is much better, but it does have problems for large items, especially when folded or especially flexible. The various photo mounting techniques are useful here; dry-mounting with several sorts of heat-sensitive tissue.
On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:00:44 GMT, "Rob Stokes" wrote:
I agree. Also, it depends on how "valuable" the map is. Sounds like this is not a particularly valuable one, though, so I suspect that simple mat board would do nicely.
This works. Alternatively the process of mounting the map to the mat board will likely flatten it enough, depending on how long it has been folded and how bad the creases are.
An excellent point. If I don't have time to do it right the first time, I REALLY don't have time to redo it. There are a couple of viable ways of mounting the map, either of which can produce a good, flat mount. First off, there is Scotchtac (Spray adhesive). It is sort of a rubber cement in a spray container, and, comes in different formulations for different levels of "stick". I tend to use the one with "77" on the can, as it blends strength of hold with the ability to remove. I find that if I spray ONE surface, I can get the pieces apart - with some work. If I spray BOTH surfaces, it is together "forever". In the case of the map, though, I think that even ONE surface sprayed would be a "forever" thing, so don't screw it up. I would spray the mat board, and then, carefully, roll the map onto it, starting either at one edge or (preferably) the center, using a rolling pin to flatten it out as I went along. The one problem with this is that, over time (10 years or so) the mounted item CAN wrinkle a bit. Alternatively, there is a "hot mount" process that is REALLY great. This uses a thin sheet of hot glue that is sandwiched between the map and the backing. The whole thing is then put in a very hot press for a few seconds, melting the glue and bonding things together. This is permanent...period. For something like the map, though, which is probably too big for a press, either it can be ironed on, or, MIGHT be able to press in sections. The other good news is that the glue is quite neutral, so, will not damage the mounted item. A lot of photographs are mounted this way.... Of course, there is also not mounting it at all (which is the most flexible thing. Simply get the map flat (above process, or ironing), then, sandwich it in between the glass front and a mat board backing. It will not move, and, if changes are desired in the future, they can be done with little pain. Of course, this only works if there IS a glass front. If the map is to be mounted with NO cover, then, one of the first two processes will have to do. Regards Dave Mundt
Thanks for the advice, the map is not particularly valuable. I believe I will use a mat board in the front, and mount it to the hardboard backing with the 3M spray adhesive, and slowly roll it onto the hardboard with a rolling pin. My BIL bought the map folded, so he will be stuck with the fine lines already in the map.. :-( Guess I will start flatting it between a couple pieces of 1/2" MDO I got left over and see what it looks like in a week.
I will ask at my local (somewhat) Hobby Lobby store > Sometime poster, mostly lurker... :-)
Bob, I have several NOAA Nautical Charts mounted & framed. {One is of Frenchman's Bay, & Mt. Desert Island, Maine, where we went on our honeymoon . . . we just had our 30th, and the chart is still smooth & flat}. That Chart was mounted the old 'Traditional' way by a 'dedicated' framer.
I mounted several other Charts over the years. I had them mounted by a local 'framing shop' using a 'modern method'. Instead of the expensive 'museum board' backing, and enclosing the back of the frame, they 'dry mounted' {good}them on to 'Foam Core Board' {good}, but DIDN'T dry mount anything onto the BACK of the board {BAD}.
This method {& materials} is relatively inexpensive and good . . . HOWEVER . . . they MUST mound something {a paper of equal weight to what ever is mounted on the face is ideal} on the BACK . . . even simple 'brown bag' paper could do. What happens is, as the humidity changes, and time effects the 'surface image', it contracts and the board 'cups'. When the 'subject' is LARGE, like a Chart, it tends to 'pop' it out of the frame.
None of the Charts are 'under glass'. No real reason for the expense, and WEIGHT. Typically, a 'matt' is to hold the glass away from the surface of a photograph, so the 'gelatin' doesn't stick to the glass, or cause 'Newton Ring' distortion. A secondary reason is for 'cosmetics', like the trim on a house.
Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
PS: I also mounted some 16x20 photo seascapes {printed from 4x5 transparencies}from a couple of other trips. Mounted them the 'correct' way and they are still fine.
Thanks for the information. Looks I should mount it on poster board, then use some hardboard as a backing when placing the map/poster board in the frame.
So you don't see a need for plexy or glass in the front hum ? What about a mat board in the front for an edging ??
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