I've been cutting a lot of dados with a router and now I understand why
people get dado blades for their table saw. Doing it with a router is SLOW.
I've got 180 1/4" slots to cut and this is going to take days.
I think I 'll bite the bullet and go get a dado blade. Is there any problem
I should know about to use a dado with a Jet Supersaw? I was thinking
about the 8" Forrest dado king.
I'm not sure about the Jet.
I have an 8" Freud Super Dado and love it.
I might look at a 6" if I had to do it over again. I will never cut dadoes
deep enough to need the 8".
I have heard the Forrest is good but you might see if they have a 6". It
would save you money.
It is not just depth of cut. I have a Ridge Northwoods and the 8" is $10
more than the 6". www.ridgecarbidetool.com
Tip speed of the blade is going to be higher than with a 6". Everything else
being equal, you can get a smoother cut and faster feed rate. I may change
my mind to save $100, but not for $10. I bought my blade at one of the shows
and could have had either for the same price. The 6" are made for lower
powered benchtop saws. Any 1.5 hp motor can handle the larger blade.
Would you choose smaller penis just to save 10 bucks? ;)
What I did do was buy the highest rated dado set in it's price range. It
was the second highest rated overall. (At least when I bought it.) Only
the Forrest was higher rated.
Today, the 8" Freud is $159.99 at Amazon. The 6" is 74.99. The price
difference was similar when I bought mine. The 6" is also a good product.
The magazine I looked at rated it a best buy.
I have a friend who has the 6" and it cuts very good dadoes. I haven't
compared them with a microscope but I honestly can't tell the difference.
Flat bottoms, no tearout, etc.
The Forrest 8" is $279.99 at Amazon. That's a lot of money for a dado set.
I would personally go with the Freud. Either the 6" or 8".
Thanks for everyone's comments. Obviously there are some variables, but my
overall impression is that both Freud and Forrest would be good to
excellent. After that, it gets to each person's budget and personal value
judgement. There is no right and wrong answer when it comes to that.
So I'm off to exercise my personal value judgement. :-)
Not to mention broken router bits caused by getting into a hurry.
(voice of experience, and I'm very glad that I was wearing a full face
For a 1/4" slot, you could just make multiple passes with a regular TS
blade. Still time consuming, but faster than a router (I've done that
myself with just a circular saw, with acceptable results). Many
carbide-tipped blades cut a kerf wider than 1/8", so the most you
would have to do is two passes.
Also, for a slot that size, you could make one pass with the TS, and a
2nd with the router, and it would still go quicker. I did that on one
project where I needed several 1/2 x 1/2" slots -- I went down each
side of the slot with the saw (set just an RCH under 1/2" depth), then
once down the middle, then a final pass with a 1/2" bit for a clean,
flat, accurate dado. But for 180 1/4" slots, I'd just do it all on the
TS. I'd do one pass on the whole lot, then carefully reset the fence,
and make the 2nd pass on the whole lot.
Another idea I have seen (but haven't used yet) is to just buy two (or
three) matched blades, and mount them together, making fine adjustment
using cardboard shims.
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