A Newbie Question about Crosscut Sled for Tablesaw

Hello,
I have a Craftsman's Tablesaw, circa 1950, and want to build a full size (use both miter slots) crosscut sled for it. The tabletop measures 21" W x 27" D. I intend to make it 24" deep but was wondering if there is a "rule of thumb" for the width? Thanks for any advice.
yos, Marshall
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The trouble with a big crosscut sled is that they are heavy and you can't cut a very wide board without the sled falling off the front of the saw. If you make one that runs in the left miter slot and has the fence only in the back you can cut a very wide board without the sled falling off the table. You can make it zero clearance so you always know where your cut will fall. You also don't have to remove your guards when you use it.
Tim

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Also think about making a panel sled. Use Tim's idea but put the fence on the front rather than the back. Think of the fence leading into the cut. It great for sqaring up large panels like sides of cabinets and such. Mine has a long runner sticking out the back. That way when I'm cutting a wide panel, I still get good indexing in the miter slot while the fence of the sled is way past the blade already. I used the Incra metal slides, but a well fitted hardwood one would work just as good.
Regarding the width of you back fenced sled, I'd make it what ever width you think you'll need. The only rule of thumb I can think of is to make sure the blade is in the middle. That way if the sled is wider than the top of the saw, it will stay balanced.
Bernie

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snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net says...

clamp a piece of the same thickness as the sled to the other side of the saw.
I made a big two-runner sled and am about to cut it in half :-).
But one advantage of a large table is a long fence. Mine is 24" with a stop block and I have an extension that screws on for another 18" capacity. I don't know how a long fence would work on a short table.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

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Marshall Dugger III wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/6yrpt
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On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 18:41:30 -0400, "Marshall Dugger III"

as wide as you feel comfortable lifting off of and onto the saw and have a place to keep it....
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Marshall Dugger III wrote...

Whatever will fit in the storage space you've set aside for it.
It is handy, on occasion, to have at least one side overhang the edge of the saw table by an inch or two, for clamp space. It also makes squaring the fence to the sled very easy: you can screw the other end down and clamp the free, overhanging end for test cuts. The screwed end provides a pivot. Once the fence is square, simply flip the sled over, drive the remaining screws, and remove the clamp.
Cheers!
Jim
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You've read a bunch of replies already.
Who says you can only have one type of sled? I've built 4 so far, and use them all.
Patriarch
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"Marshall Dugger III" writes:

Try 25" x 48".
Go to library and get Fred Bingham's book, "Practical Yacht Joinery".
Covers the subject in detail.
He calls it a SLAT, but NBD, it's still a SLED.
You will build several different ones, trust me.
Good luck.
HTH
Lew
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<snip>

Lew,
After all the times I've seen you recommend Fred Bingham's book, I decided to order a copy, used, from an Amazon reseller.
I've only read the first 50 pages or so, but I'm pretty sure Fred's the kind of guy I'd like to have for a friend and neighbor. Best expenditure of $15 I've made in a long time.
I don't think I'll be building my own bandsaw any time soon, though.
Thanks.
Patriarch
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"patriarch writes:

I built one, does a decent job.

You're welcome.
Lew
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