Stopping water penetration into sectional garage from base

What is the best way and product, if indeed it is practical, to stop water ingress from between a garage concrete base and a sectional garage. My daughter's garage is almost a swimming pool, yet items in the garage show no signs of wet, nor do the inside of the walls and roof, so I conclude that the water is entering at the base.

Reply to
Broadback
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Having just had to deal with something similar in my shed, the first thing is to walk all round the garage inspecting the outside.

Is there a space below the outside of the base all the way round so water drains away into the ground and does not collect at or above floor level? Possibly worth digging a channel all round and filling it with pea shingle if there is any doubt.

Does the base stick out anywhere beyond the walls? Water can gather there then flow under the walls.

Is there any pointing or other seal between the bottom of the walls and the base? This would help shed water running down the outside of the walls and keep it away from the join between the walls and the base.

Are there gaps between the sections which will let driven rain enter then drain down to floor level?

Can water get into the top above the walls then drain down inside the wall sections?

In theory if you address all these issues then you stand a good chance of reducing or stopping water ingress.

Oh, and guttering will help stop water from the roof running down the walls or dropping near the base which can only help.

Cheers

Dave R

Reply to
David WE Roberts

From ancient tribal memory (our family built dozens of these things in the = '60s - we all went a bit Practical Householder over them), it's about putti= ng some magic sealer mastic strip in _as_you_assemble_ the panels.

Otherwise I'd look at avoiding any standing water outside the garage (impro= ve drip shedding from the roof, maybe gutter it, maybe a french drain aroun= d it, maybe use a big manglegrinder and chisel to chamfer the base edges). = Then I'd seal the outside of the panel joints, using a polysulphide mastic= rather than a silicone, as these are stickier and more flexible.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

On a related subject, I have a garage in the middle of a row of sectional garages at my holiday flat. The roofs are made of corrugated iron, and slope front to back - with the corrugations also running front to back. Over the door, the front of the roof sits on a concrete beam - so there are a series of sine-shaped gaps where water can get in. When rain is driving from a certain direction, it goes through the gaps and runs along the underside of the roof, dripping off in various places - so I have to keep a large plastic sheet over my tools.

Anyone got any ideas for the best way to fill these gaps. A neighbour has injected some yellow/orange expanding foam into his - and it looks pretty hideous, so I'd like something a bit more tasteful!

Reply to
Roger Mills

Something like this?

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sizes are available, so one might fit.

A
Reply to
andrew

One of the manufacturers, Compton I think, makes a moulded dense-foam strip which fits the gap exactly: I was looking at a sample recently at a garden centre. I don't know, though, if the profile is exactly the same for all makes of roof sheeting.

Bert

Reply to
Bert Coules

From ancient tribal memory (our family built dozens of these things in the '60s - we all went a bit Practical Householder over them), it's about putting some magic sealer mastic strip in _as_you_assemble_ the panels.

Otherwise I'd look at avoiding any standing water outside the garage (improve drip shedding from the roof, maybe gutter it, maybe a french drain around it, maybe use a big manglegrinder and chisel to chamfer the base edges). Then I'd seal the outside of the panel joints, using a polysulphide mastic rather than a silicone, as these are stickier and more flexible.

I assume the OP means at the base of the panel to the concrete base?

I have had this same problem, I found the best cure is to clear any internal sealant at the base of the panels and inject all weather sealant, then diluted PVA to seal the concrete and apply a sand and cement fillet at 45' to the base and panel. I have a slight problem with the fillet wicking moisture up at the moment in bad weather. I guess a small amount of PVA in the fillet mix may improve this. I intend to add gutters shortly.

My base is above ground level so any surrounding land run off does not reach the panels.

Hope this helps.

Reply to
George

When it was erected, it should have had a cement fillet all the way round the walls/floor angle inside. This stops water on the base outside (where it projects) from running under the walls/panels. So unless there's inches of water puddling outside there must be some defect with this (if it exists)

Reply to
harry

You can buy foam that fits the exact section. But it's a wrongly installed roof . There should be a bit of angle about 100mm x 100mm should run along this top edge (on top) to stop this from happening.

Blobs of silicon in the valleys of the corrugated stuff prevent water being blown "uphill" beneath the angle.

Reply to
harry

Compton no longer exists, they were taken over.

Reply to
harry

Foam and paint the foam after trimming, so it's roughtly the colour of the surrounding metal.

Reply to
Tim Watts

Something *like* that, perhaps - but that particular one is for perspex roofs rather than corrugated iron (if that matters) and - more importantly - it looks as if it has to be fitted at roof construction time rather than being retro-fitted.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Interesting. Did it look as if it could be retro-fitted, or was it only suitable for fitting when the roof was being built?

Reply to
Roger Mills

My impression was that it could simply be squeeze-fitted into an existing garage. It came in short lengths: about two feet, if I'm remembering correctly.

Bert

Reply to
Bert Coules

I suppose it depends on the interval between fixing bolts. If there are several corrugations between bolts, you might just be able to ease the roof up a bit to squeeze the foam in.

Reply to
Roger Mills

In message , Broadback writes

I spent a year erecting sectional garages. We always used to put a (2"-3" ) mortar fillet around between the base and slab.

You didn't mention the make, but Compton garages would have overlaps between the slabs, Banbury would have a strip of mastic

Reply to
geoff

In message , Broadback writes

Only one solution - Angle grinder

Reply to
geoff

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