sealing up a waste pipe you cannot dry out

hi, the toilet bowl in our house was previously put in with not enough ''slope' from bowel to soil pipe.

consequently it drips very slowly all the time. some cement was put it to seal the bowel outlet pipe going into the soil pipe, but the cement seems to have never dried out, or the moisture has been absorbed into it and the cement is now going very crumbly.

is there a good way to make the seal? i.e. something that will dry out or set in damp circumstances.

thanking you john west

Reply to
john west +++
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Unusual to have them permenantly attached, but each to their own.

It's possibly a bad mix of concrete, with not enough cement.

I'd try removing all the concrete, and either replacing with fresh (using plenty of cement, and getting a firm mix) or some other fix. What is the pipe made out of?

Reply to
Ian Stirling

the pipe coming out of the bowl is plastic and the soil pipe is cast iron. thanks for your help.

Reply to
john west +++

Oh right, I see. I thought you meant that it had been capped off.

Cement would be a rather unusual repair I would think.

I'll wait for somebody to post the right repair.

Reply to
Ian Stirling

Has it got the right cast iron to plastic adapter fitted? This should have fins which stop leaks.

I have used Plumbers Mait as a temporary repair before, seems to work but I don't know how long it would last.

Lee

Reply to
Lee

Perhaps you should think big and look to getting the slope right somehow?

Reply to
GreaseApe

^^^^^ sorry, but this is a very interesting typo which lends itself to all sorts of suggestions!. Regret I do not have the real solution though.

Reply to
dave

thanks for all the responses. the plastic pipe does have fins, but for some reason still allow some leakage. changing the slope would be too major a job i think. i suppose ideally i want something that would 'set' even thought there was wet about at the lowest point.

Reply to
john west +++

Reply to
Grunff

To have your bowel permanently connected to the toilet pan must be sore. But each to their own. :-))

Have you looked at getting a longer pan connector from B&Q or somewhere. Or an extension pipe that comes with rubber fins on the outside of it, and these press firmly right inside the cast iron pipe.

Something like these:

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Reply to
BigWallop

Cement will set under water (it is a chemical reaction, not a loss of moisture that sets it) and many yachts carry some for temporary emergency repairs because of that. If yours has not set, it was probably mixed with too much water or too much sand. However, I would visit my local plumber's supplier, tell them the problem and ask what they have to cure it. There is probably a miracle sealant that will do the job.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
nightjar

Silicone sealer. Car body filler.

But do your best to dry out the thing first. Fl;ush, and then use a BIG towle or something to push all teh water past the U-bend, dry out any surface water with towels and a hair dryer, and then slap on eny gunk.

You could do worse than remove any existing cement.

If there are huge gaps use expanding foam first, and then layer silicone over ot to finish off.

Car body filer will do teh whole job, but its rather 'permament'

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

They ALWAYS do.

Massive application of silicone sealer will sort this. Or did on mine anyway.

changing the slope would be too major a

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Probably not the 'correct' solution but you can get silicon which will set in wet conditions, eg:-

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Reply to
Nick Brooks

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