Working out the section modulus using 3" deep joists, you would need to double
> up and use two 3x2's in place of each 4x2, and even then I think the floor would
> probably be more springy than at present.
>
> Alternatively, assuming you have enough clearance under the joists, you could
> notch new 4x2's over the wall plates (and use joist hangers if possible). Or,
> even better, cut out 2"x1" deep grooves in the wall plates to seat the full 4"
> joist depth slightly lower..
First, sorry if this is a duplicate response to some,I've just noticed Google doesn't have my last post.
Notching the joists sounds like a better plan, what if I were to to take about half an inch out of the joist as it crosses the sleeper walls (the bearers are only 4"x1" anyway)? Would this reduce the strength significantly? I would hope not and it would be less bouncy than the original 3" plan.
Why ply AND boards? Couldn't you do away with one of these?
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> Peter
All the advice I have seen on laying solid wood floors recommend laying ply followed by a vapour barrier followed by the floor itself. This is to prevent one side of the floor being exposed to the damp floor void. I'm not sure why the vapour barrier cannot go beneath the ply but who am I to argue?
Thanks, David.