Penetrating damp

[meow2222]

aka people who dont share you present views. Thats always how it is when you go somewhere to learn something.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

Why don't you just summarise this secret knowledge once and for all? If the solutions are known and very limited, give us a break and spell them out. I could do with a laugh.

[The Natural Philosopher]

"everything must breath" "rising camp doesn't exist" "modern houses are just crap, because they are wind- and water- proof, comforatble and warm"

[meow2222]

I did on the site I gave you the link to. Its only a first rough draft, to act as a basic primer for people asking questions about it.

Maybe you missed it.

NT

[meow2222]

all 3 incorrect. Getting kinda boring as well as a bit silly.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

Maybe I did. Maybe you could post it again. Christ, this is hard work.

[Mark]

Looks like people on PP are also asking the same question,

Quote "perhaps it would be useful to explain where your knowledge comes from NT - do you work in this field or is it just experience" ?

Care to respond ?

-

[Chris George]

On 20 Jun, 21:16, kev007 wrote:

Here is my opinion fwiiw

There are four types of dampness Lateral penetration Rising damp Pipe leaks Condensation

You need to determine which. As it only occurs after a period of rain your diagnosis looks pretty sound. I suggest you draw an isometric sketch of the end of the gable wall from the inside with the floors and rooms identified and with the aid of an assistant take damp readings with a damp meter (preferably a capacitance or radio wave type that does not leave two little holes as does the resistance-type meters). ~Readings should be at about 300mm centres and with the masonry (not timber) scale used. Ancillary readings of the timber would be useful. Do this when it is dry. Do it again just as soon as it STARTS to rain and at frequent intervals thereafter. So you may have 4 or 5 sets of plans marked up with a moisture contour map at different times over a 48 hour period (or whatever seems appropriate). From these data you will, hopefully, gain an insight as to the distribution of water inside and consequently the likely source outside. The source(s) can be many and varied. The solution will have to be tailored to the source. Whoever said dig a trench and put in pea shingle was right for external high ground levels. - you can also tank externally Whoever painted on a "water proof" paint showed a lack of understanding of how walls work. Sooner or later the paint will fail - form micro cracks - water will get in and cannot get out. U values down - damage difficult to locate. If you have to put on a water "proof" layer (and sometimes with stone it is necessary) then take off the gunge - rake back the pointing 20 mm - and put on a lime or cement render (depends on what is there and type of house). This will act as a goretex coat accepting some water but giving it back later. If Lime use Mortars, Plasters and Renders in Conservation by John Ashurst as your guide but dont put in any cement. If cement render look up the latest BRE guides. Absent a render (which should only be a last resort) look at the state of the bricks/stone/ whatever. I is not likely to be cavity (some discussion on that) with a victorian house. Ask- Is the material fit for the purpose? Is the pointing fit? If the bricks are ok and the pointing not - use lime not cement for repointing as a victorian house would not be built with cement and you should have a compatible product. This all presuming you will get rid of the paint. If, however, you elect not so to do then all I can suggest is that you find out what it is, ensure it suitable as a base for a further application of the same and keep painting at sufficient intervals to ensure it is water proof. Expect to find interstital condensation and lower U values but hopefully no actual water after rain. chris

[meow2222]

[Stuart Noble]

That is a link to 63 pages which I have no intention of trawling through to find the draft you referred to earlier.

[meow2222]

so _one_ person _did_ ask _another_ question. One which is perfectly reasonable afaics.

I've learnt not to put this type of information on usenet, so sorry but no. More to the point, what I do or think has no bearing on what has been learnt by damp reserchers in the last decade or two, and can be read online by anyone that wants to. At some point I hope that a list of links to such information will land on that damp faq, but it hasnt yet been done due to issues with such a list that are not yet resolved, and having more than enough other things to do.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

So stop referring people to this mythical information