Hirschmann 4mm safety plug - how do I undo?

[js.b1]

I have some Hirschmann 4mm safety plugs (KUN S), the flex just pulled out of one, and I recall the flex is retained by a screw then they push & click together.

How do I get the thing apart, or are they "one use only"?

[Martin Crossley]

If they are like the old non-safety version, the pin pushes back out with a bit of jiggling with a suitable tool to try to ease it past the stops (steps in the moulding) it clicked against going in, but just slightly more than enough force damages them.

[js.b1]

Lovely :-)

Looks like these are a super-safety type where you can not get them out again (I can see a logic to that re VDE safety not being left staring at a live probe sticking out of something). Useful factor for sales too!

[docholliday]

Looking at the picture in

looks as it it's probably intended to be difficult - if you could get a piece of thin walled tube which can be pushed into the annular gap between the two parts of the insulation it might be possible to release the clip, but unless you've a lot of these to take apart I suspect it would be more trouble than it's worth - you might have to experiment on several to get the technique right.

[js.b1]

It is, got it out - but punched the grub screw sideways into the terminal :-) Due to Farnell =A320 min order, I will wait until I need some other things and pick up a few spare.

It happened right when I needed a voltmeter :-) Car was doing occasional "no start", everything goes dead, then comes alive again after a minute. Trying again either makes it start fine or it repeats. I suspect a) high resistance negative battery terminal from bare conductors under two lousy pozidrive screws and perhaps another wher the negative cable runs off to after the bodywork connection (starter ?) or b) starter might be going out because I used to sometimes get a click-nothing, then repeat, then it started normally. If battery voltage drops low enough for any reason the alarm/ immobiliser steps in, making the car dead until they timeout and making it live & re-armed. It used to do this when the car battery was right on its last legs, but the battery has recently been replaced and alternator checked (2x). Battery was 12.9V (last night, 5 starts ok) to 12.5V (today, 3 starts ok) confirm the battery is ok and the

14.50-14.51V with the engine running and bright door lights shows that is ok too. However those starts were without it being moved, sat stationary on the driveway. I do not think immobilisers or alarms are worth it, better fitting your own kill switch or other lock.