Fixing coving

[F]

I'm helping fix some 'high density resin' coving tomorrow.

Anyone got any experience of/advice on 'Anastasia' at

using either powdered adhesive or a grip type adhesive in a gun.

I'm told the walls and ceiling are not exactly flat...

[Vortex5]

I "coved" for the first time ever last year using Gypsum (quite heavy) coving and "Gyproc" cove adhesive.

My experiences:

• Make sure you have a decent mitre cutting tool and a sharp saw. Also concentrate (measure twice cut once rule) on getting the cuts right first time. Bloody irritating if you don't and that is especially easy.

• The adhesive does what is says on the bag, with good "grab" Do not mix too much at one go because it does not stay workable for that long.

• If you're working single handed cut a couple of sticks or battens to length to jam against the floor and support the cove as you go.

• Keep a bucket of water and a sponge handy for wiping off excess/grouting while the adhesive is workable. fresh

D

[Usenet Nutter]

Or mark where the bottom of the coving will go and tap in a few panel pins or nails to support it at several places .

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I fitted something similar to my hall and used the adhesive they recommended and supplied. Cost was quite similar to 'branded' No Nails type stuff so no reason not to.

I bought some telescopic supports from Lidl which were about a tenner each and invaluable for supporting it until it dried. Used panel pins into the plaster at the bottom to support it initially.

[mike]

I've found Toolstation's coving adhesive (Item 19015) to be excellent

- unlike a lot of cartridge adhesives. Used panel pins to support until dry.

[John Rumm]

I would recommend that as well. Its quicker to get in place than trowelling on the gyprox mix yourself stuff.

I use tend to use a few oval nails to support the base when putting it up. One or two tapped into the ceiling will also lock it in place while it dries.

If the walls or ceiling ar a bit wonky, apply the coving so that it is straight, rather than following the undulations in the wall. Then fill the gaps. Your eye is drawn to the straight edge of the coving and not the wall, so its better that is straight. If you make it follow an uneven wall, then you just highlight that the wall is uneven!

[Mike2]

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 08:02:54 -0000, "Vortex5" eagerly tapped out this message:

A while ago in this group a piece of adjustable equipment was mentioned that enabled you to cut the coving to the angle you required as life is not all 90deg corners. I cant remeber the name, but it was something like "might mitre" or something close. I would like to procure such an article :-)

Mike 2

[Tim Watts]

John Rumm wibbled on Friday 19 February 2010 15:12

Agree - few nails means not having to worry about keeping a long length on the pencil line or falling off when you're at the other end....

Can I mention again - Gyproc Lite. Same profile, much lighter and looks exactly the same. A lot easier to transport and handle long lengths.

[F]

Job done and thanks for all the advice.

Panel pins to support, powder adhesive on the ceiling/coving faces and the grip adhesive from a gun for the wall/coving faces (we found the powder mix had a lot more grab).

Unfortunately, the corners of the room were well out of square so there's going to be a little filling in the mitres.

[D.M.Chapman]

Was it

?

They work - but aren't as fantastic as they make out (surprise surprise).

Check the depth - some coving is too deep

Darren

[John Rumm]

How does it compare price wise?

[Tim Watts]

John Rumm wibbled on Friday 19 February 2010 18:08

'bout the same.