In article , John Rumm scribeth thus
Indeed.. Have you a multimeter anywhere?, and I suppose if you had you'd know how to use it and wouldn't be asking here. Toolstation do them as well as Maplins and there very useful things to have around...
Up there with the standard equipment of angle grinder and suchlike;)..
I used two to be sure; the neon screwdriver types. Both showed no life. My multimeter has finally packed up, but I would sooner use a neon screwdriver than a mm for this purpose, anyway.
Can't apply the tip of a screwdriver to a terminal and check for a glow? Ha rdly likely.
There is power coming down the main incomer for sure or the house would be in darkness.
I admit I have no idea how the garage is supplied. I'm only guessing it's c oming from a separate fuse below the meter through the RCD to the bottom le ft of said meter and then on to the garage. I haven't the means to check fo r continuity between the meter box and the garage CU to verify this.
Nope! I've seen the meter disk spin up markedly when power is running in th e garage.
Yeah, from an extension lead plugged into a 3-way adapter. ;)
Been doing this sort of thing for a whisker under 40 years and haven't kill ed myself yet.....
Yes, but what I'm surmising is that AFTER that master fuse there's a secondary fused spur off out to the garage and if anything goes wrong with anything along that line, the supply to house will be unaffected.
garage >CU to verify this.
On further thought, I suppose I could disconnect the RCD in question and ho ok a 9v battery up to the phase and neutral feeds which I suspect go to the garage and then check for the presence of
Fixed!
Threw caution to the wind and broke a company seal. Just as suspected, separate 'fuseway' (if such term can be applied to circuit breakers) for the garage and a trip had tripped! Must have been unduly nervous.... Anyway, all working fine again now. :)
It's a possibility. If it was an incompetent installing it.
IME anything after the meter is nothing to do with the leccy board and even it it does have a seal - you can open it. This sort of wiring should be thick cables and easy to trace. I'd suggest that whilst you are investigating that you draw up a master diagram of which breaker does what, laminate it a stick it on the wall by the meter.
That's not a test. Bin the neon screwdriver and buy a new multimeter.
A close up of the white switch at the bottom left of your picture would help.
It certainly looks like the incoming supply is split at that point. ie split after the meter.
A sore subject:-(
Just to satisfy our (my!) curiosity, can you post a picture of what you opened and what had tripped?
Easiest is probably to upload to
Use it for doing screws, but I would not rely on it to test for live electrical circuits.
ok if that's what it does,, not so good when it does not!
again, some photos would help...
Chances are there will be a switchfuse of some description after the meter. It may be wired in parallel with the CU via a henley block, or daisychained with the CU etc,
While "officially" you are not supposed to break the fuse seals, anyone from the electricity supplier who visits your house is going to agree that it makes more sense for you to break them for isolation rather than "live working". In the very unlikely event of being challenged you can always say they were like that when you moved in.
You are unlikely to get permission if you ask!
Good result!
"Seals? They've always been like that mate".
I would have thrown the screwdriver in the bin rather than use it as test equipment.
If the multimeter is digital it will have a 9v battery powering it. On cheaper multi-meters there is no battery compartment so you will have to split the case to gain access, usually after removing a few screws.
and my really expensive Fluke multimeter has had to go because the display has faded away. Mind you it must be nearly 25 years old.
Yeah, it's just a personal preference having used them for decades and know ing the inherent problems with them. I would never recommend the use of a N S to anyone else. So far as the photos are concerned, I do once again apologise. It's a littl e late now for this matter which has been resolved, but I am taking steps t o ensure that I shall be able to post clear and decent sized pictures in th e very near future for other queries which are bound to arise. Sorry again, guys for the photos, but many thanks indeed for all your sugge stions.
I'm also taking the opportunity to set up a proper newsreader this end, so I don't miss any of your valued replies, gentlemen! Posting via Google groups is, er, let's just say "sub optimal". :)
I find the easiest option to be Dropbox, you simply drop the file into a particular folder on your computer, then right click on the file and select "Copy Public Link" then paste it in your message, simples!
I also use it to keep some important documents in, so I can then access them anywhere I like, including on my smart phone (Passport, insurance etc..)
Referral link -
Non-referral link which won't -
knowing the inherent problems with them. I would never recommend the use of a NS to anyone else.
ittle late now for this matter which has been resolved, but I am taking ste ps to ensure that I shall be able to post clear and decent sized pictures i n the very near future for other queries which are bound to arise.
Thanks, Toby, but it's already sorted and I'm going to use a cheap domain I 've acquired. I just have to find the time to configure the settings in Mid night Commander and I'll be up and away. Should have it all working before the end of the month with any luck.
My cheap Tandy meter is still working as well as ever, despite being that age. And having two AA batteries.
As well as ever means having a label on it with hand notations for 12V,
5V etc with the calibration values. 12 comes up as 12.35...And I still use a neon driver for mains. Test live, turn off, test dead. Unlikely it will fail at that moment, and it would take a multiple failure to hurt me.
Andy
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