I need to replace 2 rads in our CH system, regrettably the CH circuit does not have any drain points. I had originally thought of removing the bleed valve from a downstairs rad and trying to direct the resulting flow via a large diameter pipe to the adjacent front door but am now wondering if I should manually lift the pressure relief valve in the combi. Any other thoughts ?? (other than to install a drain point once the system is empty).
Many thanks
Neil
So some b****** plumber has saved 50p by not fitting any drain valve. Love 'em.
You'll need to crack open a joint where the pipes connect to a downstairs radiator (or more than one, depending where you need to do the work, and "attempt" to catch the effluent.
Note that you can buy drain valves which you screw on to an existing, filled CH pipe, like a diy washing machine connection; they puncture the pipe without causing a flood (but as they presumably leave a small copper punched-out disc swirling around the CH system i'd think twice about using them myself.)
David
If you can find rads the exact same size you could change them without draining down - simply turn off the valves either side.
Plan 'B' hire a large capacity wet & dry vacuum cleaner - undo the pipe & 'suck' the water away.
How about removing a downstairs radiator (after shutting off both valves) then attaching a hose to one of the valve outlets and opening the valve?
Shut the valves to the rad to be removed. Place a suitable bowl under one of the two valves then use some kitchen foil to fashion a funnel between the valve and the bowl. Slacken off one on the nuts holding the valve to the rad tail pipe, and then adjust the "funnel" to catch all the drips. After a few seconds you will have to remove the rad bleed screw to let air in to the top of the rad, and allow water out of the bottom. You can slacken or tighten the valve nut to control the water flow, or stop it when you realise the bowl is about to fill up! This way can can remove rads without draining the system. I've done it many times, and while a bit tedious, with a bit of practice works fine. (watch out when you lift the empty rad off the brackets - it will probably still have some black sludgy goo in it, which is hell to get out of the living room carpet - I tie a plastic bag over each rad tail before lifting it off). David
Plan C - fit one of those self-drilling outlets designed for garden taps & washing machines, attach hose and drain to garden. When system empty, cut off that section of copper pipe and replace it.
Exactly what I was going to suggest. Lobster mentioned "hot tap" connectors, which I was also considering as a possible solution. They are used at my workplaces, but I've never used one (emergency use only, I suspect), but I'd doubt that they'd punch out a disc as Lobster suggests. It sounds bad enough in a CH system, but you imagine a similar disc rattling around through the valve work in a 3000psi gas processing plant ... didn't think so. I'll see if I can find out how they work, but you'd probably be quicker looking at one on the shelf yourself than waiting for an answer here. It's possible (likely!) that there are several different ways of cracking this particular nut. Of course, you've got to visit the plumbers yourself anyway - once you've got the system drained down, you are going to fit a drain point yourself, aren't you.
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