Has anyone any experience of these?
The details of light output are sketchy so I would be interested as to how they would compare to flourescent tubes.
Doesn't say how they are driven. Just 12 volt DC. Without a proper driver they won't be as efficient as a florry.
En el artículo , Dave Plowman (News) escribió:
Just SMD resistors embedded in the strip.
I bought a 30cm one recently to stick to the back of my monitor as an experiment:
no info about light output, could be so dim as to be not much use. Will almost certainly be a very nasty white, warm white leds generally cost more per output.
NT
In message , R D S wrote
I used a couple of a similar design, but shorter, in a fish tank.
Initial impression was that they ran very hot despite being mounted to the underside of the metal lid of the tank with industrial strength double sided tape. The LEDs were extremely bright.
After a month or so some of the individual LEDS started dimming.
After 9 months all LEDs were still working but many were 10% of their original brightness! Possibly the series resistors built into the assembly were failing rather than the LEDs themselves.
The LEDs were driven with a supply purchased with LEDs and measured a nominal 12V DC (with a multimeter and oscilloscope) which was the specified voltage for the array.
More info here
Have you got a link for the 99p option, Mike?
Ta
Rout a channel into the underside of the shelf, concealed glow can look great.
Depends what your displaying, T5 is still a lot brighter which can be better for things like cosmetics.
LEDs are available from many manufacturers in many grades, one grade have seen referred to as `seasonal quality` intended for use in things like Christmas decorations or toys. Price of LEDs at this grade can be 5% of a good bright bin high grade LED.
Solder joints on tape can be prone to failure , decent RoHS solder is again significantly more expensive than something that will work for just the holidays. Its generally the LEDs themselves failing though, impurities in the dice, its what made them cheap to start with.
3528 is a single LED dice per LED , 5050 is 3 dice per LED so significantly brighter, and more heat stress on cheap LEDs. Higher current drain of course and PSU placement becomes an art, its low voltage but the currents involved can be quite high. 12V DC power is what you need, a decent PSU that stays stable and dosen`t start with a spike and then settle for instance.Don`t cheap out on the power supplies, have had seen couple of cheapos literally go BANG!, the spike killed several m of tape as well. Currents involved can set things on fire.If its easy to get in and change , take a risk with the cheap LEDs, if it isn`t` spend some real money on quality tape now rather than the grief of changing it out in 6 months, but whatever don`t cheap out on the PSUs...
Cheers Adam
I bought an LED mains spotlight (RO something replacement). Wasn't cheap. It went bang after only a few months of occasional use.
=A0 London SW
This makes interesting reading , lot of leaky lytics in there
En el artículo , Zapp Brannigan escribió:
Yes, it's item number 300566584471
Splendid - thanks!
The ones in the freezers in Tesco look fairly good. No idea how much they cost or how they're powered.
Owain
Got exactly those on the plinths of my kitchen units, all the way around. Makes for a great low level light when you dont need or dont want the acutal kitchen lights on. Driven with switch mode 12v wall wart. Very bright, and 8 months on all still working as they should.
Tim.
I have no experience of these LED strips but was really impressed by some that I saw here: HMH Electrical Ltd
I have no connection with HMH.
Richard
My kitchen under cupboard lighting - florries with dimmable electronic ballasts - was installed perhaps 15 years ago. I'm still waiting for one of the tri-phosphor tubes to fail. And for LEDs to arrive which match halogen in light quality. I expect I'll have a long wait.
Indoor LED lighting:
Decorative fittings (0) Pendants (0) Wall lights (0) Crystal (0) Spotlights (0) Floor and table lights (0) Kitchen (0) Bathroom (0) Garden (0) Security (0) Children (0) Cupboard/wardrobe lighting (0) LED strip lights (0) LED drivers (0) LED colour changing lamps (0)
=A0 London SW
I'm on my second (complete) set of slimline fluros in just under 6 years. The fittings gave up the ghost, not the tubes. It seems that the heat under the cupboards was too much for them. What was especially annoying was that I couldn't find new units that were the same size as the existing items and had therefore had to buy a second set of cool white tubes as the fittings were only available with warm white tubes.
Queue kitchen heat joke.
John Lewis - who supplied kitchen and fittings, no longer supply slimline fluros because, they said, of their short life under the cupboards.
Personally, I detest halogen lights - or 'darks' as I call them - because they don't provide a flat wash of light and create shadows.
.Richard
Mine are just ballasts with naked tubes. The tubes held by terry clips. But ordinary 1" tubes. The whole lot is concealed by the plinth - although a child would see the 'guts'.
Which of course can be nice for an area where you don't just want working light. But in a kitchen, you do need even lighting, for when you're working in it. And I can't see LEDs providing this as well as florries do.
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