Alternative To Aquapanel .

[Stuart]

Has anyone used this backing board for tiling on to . ?

[Ian Stirling]

plasterboard quite well, and tile adhesive sticks to the foil quite well too. YMMV.

[Stuart]

So when are you going to notice your tiles falling off do you think .? :-)

Stuart

[sm_jamieson]

You would have it overlapping a bath say, so that if water from the shower finds its way through the grout and tile cement, it would run down the board and still end up in the bath. However, this is only for waterproof boards. Hardibacker is I believe porous, so would not work for this application, Something like wedi-board would be the thing. Simon.

[TheScullster]

I don't understand these products! The idea of tiling is to create a waterproof (and aesthetically pleasing) surface. So, as long as the tiles stick to it and the substrate doesn't flex, then all should be well. Plasterboard (with sufficient timber framing behind) fulfills the above criteria IMHO.

If water gets behind the tiles then it will eventually appear somewhere. If the backing materials are super-stable and impervious then the water will find its way around this and damage something else! So, unless you are creating a wall from scratch specifically for tiling onto and even if you are, why use it?

Phil

[Ian Stirling]

It was a limited test. The actual idea is to instead of ripping up my walls entirely, and insulating. To cut many holes in the plasterboard, blow/pour foam beads in, paper the walls/ceiling with foil, rip off the skirting board, seal to wall edge, skim over the top, and then replace skirting board. (It's a 2" ish variable gap in front of a 50cm stone wall)

This should significantly improve insulation, with arguably less disruption, and certainly less outlay, than completely ripping everything off.

[Stuart]

Well I am doing a round a bath area for an over the bath shower so there is no way you will get me using plasterboard for that .....I used ply on a timber frame before but I didnt do it very well and then there has been another layer of tiles on top so I'm ripping it all off and starting again and doing it right this time ..On dry areas plasterboard might well be ok unless you need to replace any damaged tiles when you'll be ripping the PB out as well .

Stuart

[David Pearson]

Oooh, you do the same as me... Which ever unit is most convenient on the tape measure!

I have no idea how old you are, but (I'm guessing) this a common trait for those of us educated in the 70's and 80's????

Dave

[Dave]

I was educated it the late 50's, early 60's. I was metricated in 1978 when I started work in the metric aerospace industry. Before that, I worked in the sane industry, but used inches.

I can do inches or millimetres, but I am buggered when it comes to centimetres. I have to do a mental exercise to convert to mm's.

Daft, init? :-)

Another Dave

[Alex]

Yes have used this board in a shower enclosure ,recommend it highly

[nigmyk]

both hardibacker and aquapanel are cement based and therefore stable when damp. Unless you have completely waterproof grout e.g. epoxy, some water penetration will occur. Having installed numerous showers and tiled surfaces MHO is that these panels or solid walls are the only ones that last for years in a very damp environment

[Stuart Noble]

I think it's more the resin bonding that's waterproof

Unless you have completely waterproof grout e.g. epoxy, some

[Ian Stirling]

80s here mainly. The reason I quoted the first one as 2" was that that was what it was first told to me as. I generally use cm, for most new stuff that I do, unless getting to within a cm is important, when I go to mm.