I bought a new fiberglass door along with the door manufacturer's stain kit
2 years ago. When I applied the stain per their recommendation (apply, let
it sit, then wipe off residual) the door kept some of the stain. I assume it
had some type of adhesive or other binding ingredient. I would suggest you
check with the local paint experts to see what they recommend. There must be
stuff specifically formulated for doing fiberglass or other non-absorbing
Sorry if I missed the humor. I did, however, read the link you provided. The
description of what to use was limited to about a dozen words, saying either
heavily pigmented or gel stains would work.
YES! Old Masters is where it's at! I was trying to figure out which
brand Pella recommended for their doors (it was no longer on their
website.) The only thing I could think of was "Old Village."
I had to drive quite far this weekend to get it because no place in my
entire county sells that brand. Awesome product.
The only thing I can't get a straight answer on is the brush. The can
says use synthetic, other people (here and elsewhere) said foam brush
and the dealer said china bristle brush. I decided to try the natural
china bristle brush just because I prefer those when using oil based
stain, varnish and paint. It came out pretty good I must say and far
exceeded my expectations.
I'll never use another brand gel stain again.
The only way something will adhere to fiberglass is to use a fiberglass
activator from a boat chandlery ( bare fiberglass, NO paint or primer on
surface) . This reacts at the molecular level with the fiberglass and must
be painted within 1 to 2 hours. Everything I am reading in this thread about
staining fiberglass is freaking this old boat builder. Polyurethane one or 2
component works well on fiberglass but stain??????? This I would have to
Suspicious old fart.
On Aug 14, 11:28 pm, poison email@example.com wrote:
I did this several years ago on about 15 doors. The first door I did
came out horrible. All the rest look great. The tricks I learned
1. use a foam brush
2. don't go over areas you've already stained unless you do it within
30 seconds or so. Got to move quicky cause once it starts to dry and
you go over it, it makes a mess.
3. don't rub it off. Make sure you put it on thin with the foam
Hope that helps.
Check the THerma-Tru web site. A) insure that the surface has been
cleaned use anything up to lacquer thinner. Then apply an oil based gel
stain like Zar. Leave it on about 20 minutes so it can :STAIN: the
fiberglass, then wipe off in the direction of the grain. w-mail me or if
in the North TX area call me 972 399-0777 and Ill walk you through it,or
stop by our showroom in Irving TX for a demo.
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On Tuesday, August 14, 2007 at 11:28:27 PM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The trick is to apply the gel stain the same way you would apply paint. Mak
e sure you use long smooth strokes for each section so it looks unified. Do
not wipe it off or try to wipe any darker areas. Brush it so it blends, th
en complete a long stroke. It should look like a first coat of paint that n
eeds a second coat. Let it dry overnight and it should have a rustic or dis
tressed stained look. If it doesn't, then your not a good painter and you d
on't have the skills or understanding to be able to follow my instructions.
Remember, stained wood isn't suppose to look perfect. That's what gives st
ained wood it's character.
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