I had to sparay paint the walnut stain on the wood trim of my mostly
white stucco house. Brush painting would have been very long and
difficult to do by myself. There is some overspray of dark brown on
the stucco. What is the best paint or material to use to cover up
this overspray. I am thinking of quicklime whitewash. But where do I
buy quicklime from?
Is it real stucco or the synthetic or painted stucco, real stucco use
stucco, but it wont match in color so it will have to be tinted, a
tough job even for a pro. If painted or synthetic, paint it, but again
color matching is going to be tough. If real stuco you might wire
brush off the overspray. If its painted you might try thinner if its
oil stain, or if water stain alcohol , soapy water to loosen and
remove overspray, and it depends on how much overspray, if real bad
refinishing the whole side might be best. But why anybody would spray
their trim because using a brush is to much work and didnt Mask the
trim is beyond me. You probably could have doubled the jobs cost by
not using a brush in the first place. Advise from a pro or a real
paint store is best show them photos and get real help of a pro.
Its real stucco and I had daubed fresh stucco over the overspray. It
looks good close up but the color (new=bright white, originalslightly beige) difference is visible from afar. But this seems the
best touch up option so far. I was hoping someone would confirm my
idea of using quicklime. Quicklime is the basis of the original stucco
mix and is a strong alkali which will likely chemically leach out the
oil based stain while providing a temporary white mask overcoat. My
expectation is that the quicklime will eventually weather out to
expose the original stucco or at least weather over a few seasons to
blend in with the original stucco color. Who sells 25 lb bags of
The overspray and oil based paint spatters get absorbed into the
stucco fast. Using solvents only makes a small paint problem spread
into a blob.
I had tried brush painting and the problems are, by the time I have
the ladder resting against on the second floor roof gutter (24 feet?)
I dare not lean over the side to reach the further parts of the Tudor
Style wood trim. The house is too big and its construction does not
lend itself to my fixing a safety rope harness over the roof. I am
retired, live alone and cannot get help even if it is to hold the
ladder stable. Paying someone is out of the question (big bucks for a
cosmetic item.) I leaned to the side, not once but twice over a 10
year interval, on a 6 foot step ladder and it flipped. Just a 3 foot
fall. Nothing broken but I was practically crippled (hips) for a
couple of weeks on both occasions.
The biggest problem with brush painting is that when chrging the brush
with stain from the can drops of paint inevitably get flickered onto
the stucco. Having to move the ladder frequently and carrying a
gallon can of oil based stain up and down the tall
ladder.....problematical including tipping over two almost full cans
of stain, fortunately on the grass. Spraying gives me a reach of an
extra foot or two on either side and I have a contractor air
compressor and paint spraying equipment. I did use a straight edge to
mask but the stucco has a kind of slump texture that prevents a good
masking. The straight edge cannot be more than 2 feet as a longer mask
leaves too many gaps against the stucco and allows highly visible
My latest idea is to go back to brush painting. But instead of
hanging a clumsy heavy gallon can of stain from the rung I will load
up a hand misting spray bottle (Dollar Store item) with stain and
squirt that onto the paint brush to charge up the brush with stain.
That way I have enough paint to cover as much as I can reach, I won't
get overspray and I won't get paint flickers on the stucco. And I can
climb up and down the ladder safely and quickly as often as i need to.
Oil or water based stain? If water based, you might be able to wash
most of it off (carefully) with brush and
hot soapy water. If oil based, you probably should use oil-based
stain-blocking primer, then paint.
A chip of the old paint can be matched pretty well at a good paint
store. Always easier to do it
right the first time :o)
We have a neighbor who had a spray-painting disaster inside his condo
because he changed his
mind about remodeling. We helped get dried latex paint off his
cabinets, counters and parquet
floor. Tough job, lots of Formula 409.
Is quicklime water soluble? If so, probably not the best solution.
I've used the wide aluminum shield for years and works pretty good:
I would seal the brown areas first before applying the white paint otherwise
you could do 20 coats of white and the brown still bleed through - been
there, done that.
Quicklime! A paint fashonable 100 years ago. I think a quality latex would
stand up better than a coat of baked limestone slurry. If you want, you can
usually get it in the garden dept for adjusting the acidity of the soil.
How it is mixed to apply to a house is lost to me. I think they mixed it
with milk and water. If you go that way maybe you also want to make some
homemade red iron oxide barn paint to complete the turn of the century look.
(rust, eggs and milk as a binder, all stuff farmers had in abundance).
Neither paint was stable for long and streaking due to rain is expected from
You can't buy either, you have to make it yourself. Here is some more info
Thank's for the link and the garden supplies source. I originally
came from the Far East where we used whitewash, a cottage industry
using burnt seashells and old coral, for painting concrete walls. I
am quite familiar with their properties as paints. They flake off
around something like five years as they absorb CO2 and change into
carbonate, a property useful in my application. At least quicklime is
quite similar to stucco and will weather similarly. White stain won't
have the covering power. Using latex paint to cover the overspray I
think will risk weathering that will produce tattered strands of latex
resulting in moldy streaks that stand out.
Stucco breathes. Latex paint will seal it and cause all sorts of
dampness problems if you paint over stucco with latex.
If used for touching up spots moisture has an opportunity to remain
under the latex coat. In my place, Edmonton, Alberta, the humidity is
quite low 50 to 70 per cent, we must have some super breed of mold.
That stuff grows immediately on any damp spot. When rain runs down
the wall it provides a temporary growth path for the mold colony
under the latex. That means the original black area will produce
multiple streaks. My house is 30 years old and looks great. I don't
have any mold problem. But I have seen that on neighboring houses.
Sounds like your neighbors just painted over the old mold only to have it
come back. If you properly clean and prime any bare areas, you should not
get mold or moisture penetration with an adequate coat. You can also get
paint with a mold inhibitor. Stucco breaths from the back surface.
I used to have a neighbor that whitewashed his stucco house. When he
passed away his childrnen sold the house and the new owner used a
latex paint. It looked nice at first . Its my understanding that they
should have either kept on whitewashing it or used a free chalking
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.