Water shut off, again

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On May 27, 5:11pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Last people didnt put one in, but you were the last person wernt you. Was that the other personality.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Put one on both the supply AND outlet, that way you can change tank again if you have to without draining the house down. Change the drain valve to a ball valve before you even install it. If you want to get really slick, use flexible tubing and/or a handful of elbows and make a "heat trap" on both inlet and outlet sides. Have fun!
nate
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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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If it were a frame home, I'd do that, with the valves on both sides. And either copper unions, or flex. However, it's a trailer. So, the WH connections are far higher than any sink or tub.
Wouldn't it need a heat trap on the hot side only?
The flexible tubing might avoid the need for copper unions, since the flex has swivel ends. Good idea.
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Christopher A. Young
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Yeah.
Get yourself a "ball valve" the size of copper pipe from your water meter and while the water is off, just cut out a section of pipe and put in the 1/4 turn ball valve. The ball valves cause very little pressure drop (they are even better than gate valves.)
An inside whole house water shutoff is all you really need althought it's "nice" to be able to isolate the hot water heater and still permit water for the toilets.
Again, with compression fittings you don't have to worry about soldering. The water meter shut off may not be 100% leak tight. The compression fittings work even when there is water present. Make sure you have proper sized wrenches on hand and just tighten enough to stop leaks.
You might be able to get a valve that uses "O" rings to make the seal. These usually can be installed without wrenches (hand tight will do; some just require that you insert the pipe into the end and that's it!)
It's up to you whether you trust plastic valves or want to go with brass with a stainless "ball."
If you insert plastic parts in a metal water line, you may want to ensure that you have an electrical connection around the plastic part. Many older homes use the water pipe connection for the electrical "ground." (Today, it's standard to place two ground rods.)
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The folks at HD didn't make me happy. Aparently, GE refunds only the original (vintage 2004) purchase price $190, or so. And then I get to pay the balance of the $388 replacement heater. Not like they give me a new heater, outright, or anything normal like that.
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On Thu, 28 May 2009 15:41:10 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Honestly, did you expect anything different?
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On usenet? Well, I think there was the time back in 2003 that someone was impolite, but that was only a rare occasion.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

    Well, they could have refunded "pro rata" and given you $33.00 for the one year you had left on the warranty.
    When my water heater failed, I gained a new appreciation for hot water than has not quite faded after 16 months.
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Water heater on my trailer just developed a big leak. I spent all day today replacing it. Even though it leaked in warranty. The deal is that they (Home Depot) refund my $198 from 2004, and then charge me the present $388 for the replacement. I'm not at all pleased with that.
After 7 hours of work, store time, chasing around. I finally had the grand pilot relighting ceremony. When the water warms up, it's time for shower and clean clothes. I put a quarter turn ball valve on the cold side, and didn't valve the hot side. Took out some bent (kinked) soft copper, so the flow won't be as restricted.
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