TV turns itself off & on ..

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On 10/9/2015 6:32 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Depends on where you live. I'd get maybe one station and the others would just be pixels.
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In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 7 Oct 2015 21:14:14 -0400, Ed Pawlowski

I don't remember that, but I remember when they didn't broadcast in color at all.
"This program has been brought to you in compatible color"
which I didn't understand for another 30 years. Compatible meaning black & white sets could understand it and show the picture in black and white, and the opposite too, which iirc meant when they sent a black and white show in compatible color, the color sets would render it in black and white.

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On 10/08/2015 01:40 PM, micky wrote:
[snip]

A color TV is capable of displaying a black and white picture. It checks for the color signal and works in black and white if there is none, using a circuit which I seem to remember being called a "color killer".
"compatible color" would be needed when an old black and white TV gets a color signal.
[snip]
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On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 11:27:00 AM UTC-4, Mark Lloyd wrote:

IDK what "compatible color" means. The color broadcasting system was designed so that a color broadcast would display as black and white on the millions of bw sets out there at the time. The color part was a compatible addition to what was already there.
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On 10/09/2015 11:50 AM, trader_4 wrote:

It was a marketing term coined by the cable industry to add a "Compatible Color Technology Fee" to America's cable bill. Today, the surcharge has morphed into the "HD Technology Fee".
We'll soon have a "Ultra Compressed 4K HD Technology Fee".
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In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 9 Oct 2015 08:50:12 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

I almost said it right. Compatible color meant that the signal of a color program could be understood by black & white sets and shown in black and white , and that the signal of a black & white program could be understood by a color set and displayed in black & white.
When parts of the world, probably Europe, got color tv they didn't have the enormous number of black & white sets and IIRC they used a different method for color that wasn't compatible with black & white, but other than that, it had advantages over the method used for color in the US.

Both of those are part of compatibility.

Now you probably do.

Yes.
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On 10/7/2015 6:14 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I remember when the NBC peacock would *start* spreading its feathers in B&W and *finish* in "living color".
I also remember home-made bomb shelters in basements, dental "drills" that were powered with cords on a cascade of articulated pulleys, kerosene "bombs" (bowling balls with lit wicks) in construction areas (instead of the orange dunce caps or blinking saw horses), fluoroscopes in shoe stores, "whites only" water fountains, Georgia chain gangs, etc.
cripes, seems like ancient history! :-/
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On Thu, 08 Oct 2015 11:58:20 -0700, Don Y

Even more important, non-geared can openers.
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On 10/8/2015 12:46 PM, Vic Smith wrote:

We actually have used one of those for > 20 years. One less thing to clutter up the counters! Our old one died recently so we spent weeks searching for a good replacement. (get older and your hands have more of a say in what they are willing to do!)
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There may not be anything wrong with the tv. You may have a neighbor using the same remote codes for their tv or something else. Or some other electrical devices nearby. Take it to a distant friends house and try it there. In the meantime, plug it into a power strip and shut off the power switch on the strip when not using the tv. If it shuts off when you are watching it, just turn it back on.
Ask your close neighbors what sort of remotes/tv's they have. You can look up the codes on the web, on a Universal Remote website.
This sort of thing will be more and more of a problem as we keep adding more and more wireless devices in our lives. They all run on radio waves and there are only so many to choose from. Neighboring garage door openers are a common problem for *your* garage door opener. That happens regularly.
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TV remotes use infra-red so can't work through walls!
Kenny Cargill
wrote in message wrote:

There may not be anything wrong with the tv. You may have a neighbor using the same remote codes for their tv or something else. Or some other electrical devices nearby. Take it to a distant friends house and try it there. In the meantime, plug it into a power strip and shut off the power switch on the strip when not using the tv. If it shuts off when you are watching it, just turn it back on.
Ask your close neighbors what sort of remotes/tv's they have. You can look up the codes on the web, on a Universal Remote website.
This sort of thing will be more and more of a problem as we keep adding more and more wireless devices in our lives. They all run on radio waves and there are only so many to choose from. Neighboring garage door openers are a common problem for *your* garage door opener. That happens regularly.
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A decade or two ago tehre were reports of the (then) new compact fluorescents strobbing in a way that would sometimes spoof infra red remote controls.
The original poster might check and see if there any of them around...
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On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 8:53:49 PM UTC-4, danny burstein wrote:

When I was a kid we had a TV with one of the original "clacker" remotes. There were 2 big buttons on the remote. One "rotated" through power/volume: ON - Low - Medium - High - OFF - ON - Low - Medium - High - OFF - etc.
The other controlled a motor that physically rotated the channel knob in one direction.
When you pressed a button a spring loaded hammer would hit a metal bar inside the remote and the vibration would emit a frequency that would control the TV.
We discovered that my father's keys could be used to change the channel just by shaking them In front of the TV. The vacuum cleaner would turn it On and Off and change the volume.
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Thanks for the reply. The neighbours' remotes are not the problem - various reasons. - it will cycle randomly and with increasing frequency - - once it starts .. up to every 1 or 2 minutes - .. even at 1 oclock in the morning. I cleaned the vent slots <they were not clogged> and opened it up - to wiggle a few connections on the board - and look for any obvious issues .. nada .
John T.
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hubops wrote:

Most likely you have something in the power supply going bad. It'll get worse and worse until it won't turn on at all. Bad cap(s). or HV fly back circuit, etc. I don't think it is worth an effort to repair.
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On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 7:31:07 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:

Has he tried using a different outlet to rule out a loose connection there? My Sony, if it was on when there is a power interruption, remembers and turns itself back on when power is restored. At least it does that if the power comes back in 5 or 10 mins. IDK what it does if it's longer.
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Not a bad idea .. thanks. I did try a different cord - to test for a faulty power bar - but it was from the same receptacle. John T.
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I tried a different power cord into a different receptacle - no change. Also tried covering the remote sensor - nope. Time for a new TV. John T.
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In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 7 Oct 2015 05:54:56 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

Talk about a loose connection, when I lived in a 1930 building, in a very small room (meant to be the maid's room) and the landlord failed to provide heat, I used an electric heater, in 1978 or so. 48 year old receptacle. I could tell it wasnt' tight but didn't think much about it. Heater worked fine. The heater too was old, maybe also from about 1930. Its plug was fine, made from hard rubber. One morning I wake up and see a 1- to 2-inch flame coming from the heater plug. I don't know what woke me up or how long the flame had been there. (I assumed at the time that it just started, and later the plug seemed undamaged or just barely burnt, but who knows? I still have that heater. I should check.)
I reach for the cord to pull it out, and the girl I was with was awake too and pulled my arm back before I could reach it. Did the same thing again. I don't know what was wrong with her. Panic, I guess. Glad I was stronger than she was, When I realized she would resist, I pushed harder and pulled out the plug and the flame disappeared almost immediately
The one-outlet receptacle wall plate had 10 or 20 layers of paint so I didn't want to take it off to replace the receptacle, so I just didnt' plug a heater (1000 watts) in there anymore, and I must not have needed a heater anymore as long as I lived there. It worked fine with just a TV. (I guess I should have replaced it. Could have cut the paint with a knife or razor knife. I didn't like to bother the landlord and I did better work than he did.)

Maybe still.
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< snips >

Yep - thanks for the reply. John T.
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