After flushing the toilet, it tends to continue to run. When it is flushed,
the flapper is pulled up which allows the water to escape from the tank,
while at the same time the float falls which opens the valve to fill the
tank with water. All is well to this point.
The problem is the flapper generally doesn't go back down to the bottom in a
timely fashion to plug the escape hole, and the source water begins to fill
the tank again.
The source water apparently causes enough turbulence that it resists the
flapper from falling to the bottom. If I were to manually stop the source
water by lifting the float, the flapper drops to the bottom. I think it
would be fixed if there were some way I could adjust the float to not allow
the source valve to open until the flapper were much closer to closing.
Yet, I've adjusted the float as far as it will go and that doesn't do it.
I also think that if it were a slower flow of incoming water, it might work.
Could it be that someone has used the wrong replacement parts? Someone has
added a 'weight' to the top of the flapper, but that doesn't really help,
and I have an objection to relying on pure Kentucky windage to fix things.
Any help appreciated.
The only thing that brings the flapper back down into the sealed
position is the water level dropping low enough to expose the flapper
above the surface of the water. Is the water escaping fast enough
to expose the flapper? The inlet water should not overcome the
emptying of the tank.
i would think the simplest solution may be to shut off your service valve,
then open it just a tad. It'll fill slower, and quieter, and the lack of
turbulance will probably solve your flapper dropping problem.
I had a similar problem after I replaced the old float arm valve in one
of our home toilets with a Fluidmaster valve.
There was such a strong flow of water coming through the bowl refill
tube that it was flying down the overfill pipe, splashing off the
horizontal surface below and bouncing up against the bottom of the
flapper valve enough to keep it from closing.
I diagnosed the problem for what it was and "proved it" by placing a
small C-clamp on on the refill tube and squeezing it down to reduce the
flow through it. That got the flapper working normally.
I solved the problem "fer real" by sliding a few lengths of 1/16" wire
solder inside the refill tube to create enough restriction to slow down
When I was done (and got through patting myself on the back.) I pinged
Fluidmaster with an email describing what I'd encountered and received
an almosr immediate reply which said they knew about that problem and
asking for my postal address so they could send me a free "fix". I did
that and shortly received a little plastic restrictor with barbed
fittings on each side and instructions telling me to to cut the refill
tube and stick it in.
I never got a round tuit and the pieces of wire solder are still inside
the refill tube working just fine.
So, why not try pulling the refill tube out of the overflow tube
temporarily and see if that lets the flapper drop normally.
If it does, you can figure out the rest....
Live and learn,
Thanks for a nice detailed response. I believe the problem you described is
the same thing I'm experiencing. Yes, by removing the refill tube from the
overflow tube, the flapper will reseal. Also, if I restrict the flow of
water at the wall by partially closing the stop valve, the flapper will
reseal. Now I need to decide how I'm going to fix it for good....
Just put a new flapper in (following directions) and see what happens.
They're not that expensive and are installed in minutes. You're digging
too deep for a first crack at fixing it.
p.s. I suck at plumbing anyway.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.