The water is flushing out the tank, but it is not draining out of the
bowl. When it does drain out the bowl is drains really really slow.
There is not any pressure behind the drain. I read information about
the siphon maybe be clugged.I do not understand how to fix it. What do
I need to do to fix my toliet?
Go to a hardware store and ask in the plumbing area for a toilet snake
and ask them if they can give you a quick demonstration of how to use
it,. You rotate the snake while pushing it down the toilet. It will
eventually unclog whateve is in there. It could be almost anything,
from a sock that got flushed down unknowingly to a toy soldier a kid
You could also try a toilet plunger, you put it over the botton of the
toiket and move it up and down. Again the hardware store and ask them
to show you how to use it.
You must have led a very pampered life to never have seen either of
these common tools in use.
Turn off the water to the toilet and flush it. Remove the tank
lid, exposing the insides. Raise the flapper valve and either
remove it temporarily or tie it back. Pour EITHER (not both) of a
can of Draino or Muriatic acid into the opening, being careful to
not let it get into the tank in general. Wait an hour or two.
Let the flapper loose, or replace it. Turn the water back on, let
the tank fill and flush it a couple times.
I don't know much about this, but what is the point of putting it
through the tank instead of straight into the bowl?
Also, be sure to add acid to water and not add water to acid.
This used to confuse me but when you at water to acid, there is loads
of acid and only a little water. Any reaction, even just bubbling,
has a high concentration of acid.
CY: Sounds like either clogged rim holes, or clogged drain.
Try dumping in a bucket of water. If the water fills in the
bowl, that's a clogged drain. If the bucket of water goes
down promptly, then you've got rim holes problems, most
I don't know much about this, but what is the point of
through the tank instead of straight into the bowl?
CY: Might be clogged rim holes, where the water goes into
Also, be sure to add acid to water and not add water to
This used to confuse me but when you at water to acid, there
of acid and only a little water. Any reaction, even just
has a high concentration of acid.
CY: Wrong. Concentrated sulphuric acid is a bit viscous
(gloopy) and heavier than water. Pouring water onto the top
of the acid has been known to layer the water on top of the
acid, which can created a thermal reaction, and splatter.
Also, good to use a stirring stick while pouring, so as to
get a more instant mix.
From the upper tank to the bowl rim are internal passages that carry
the water that helps make the flush, this is the water from the small
line that goes in the dip tube.
These internal passages clog with sediment over time, and decreased
flow causes no wave action in the bowl and no flush.
muriatic acid works great to clear this.
Wear safety glasses use a funnel and its best to empty the bowl of
water so the acid can clean the trap area too but its not critical.
just pour in a cup or two down the dip tube, use a funnel avoid
splashing, leave room close door wait 15 minutes, and perhaps do
for 5 bucks of acid its a no brainer to at least try:)
I've just got to restate that correctly.
In a traditional toilet the water in the tank flows through those
internal passages and out through the rim holes to make the flush.
The thing you called a "dip tube" is properly called an "overflow tube"
because it saves you from a flood from an overfilled tank should the
float operated tank valve ever fail to close.
The "small line" that goes into the overflow tube continues to add water
to the bowl through the internal passages and rim holes during the
period after the flap valve closes while the tank is filling to insure
the bowl refills enough to close off the syphon passage and prevent the
possibility of sewer gas backing up through it. That "small line" is
referred to as the "refill tube".
If there are, he should do that, but he didn't say anything
CY: Which is why we suggested the bucket test.
You mean, Right, plus the rest of what you wrote. You said
thing I did.
CY: Still wrong. The problem isn't concentration. It's
stratification. The problem is water floating on top of the
acid while reacting.
On Thu, 6 May 2010 13:02:36 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
"We" but not the person I replied to.
No, right from the start. You have one particular acid which you say
is viscous. I gave a general rule for the mixing of acid and water.
Add the acid to the water, not the other way around.** Your acid is
And how do you know the stratification problem you talk about isn't a
problem because of the concentation ratios at the boundary betweeen
**Why are so many usenet posters so eager to label someone else wrong,
even when the first person is right and even when none of their
information contradicts what the first person said? Just say, Okay,
and then give your additional information.
Just to add some encouragement to the OP about this what seems to be a
clogged toilet, or perhaps a drain that's blocked and full of
The worst toilet clog ever had to deal with was a turkey bone! It was
devil of a job to get out. Usually it's something like a toy or
toothbrush that's fallen in there and got jammed!
Someone had decided to chuck the left overs from cooking and carving a
turkey down the toilet, figuring the grease would be too much for the
kitchen sink. Somehow a bone got in the dumping into the toilet bowl
and could not be dislodged by all the usual methods! Toilet paper had
got caught around the bone! And the toilet did not flush properly;
sometimes not at all!
Ended up with everything disassembled, standing in the bath tub
shaking the whole and completely detached toilet bowl, poking in the
bottom with a bent wire coat hanger etc. until, eventually the bone
was found and hooked out!
Reassembled the toilet using a new wax seal; by the way always keep
one of them on hand because if the toilet blocks up and in our house
it's the only one, it will usually be at 9.00 PM on a Saturday night
of a long weekend. With the nearest plumbing outlet open the following
Tuesday morning five miles away. After; stripped off and took a
I was the building electrician at our married student housing
complex during my University days. Unfortunately, they discovered
I also did plumbing and I became the "man on call" 24/7 for
plumbing emergencies. I didn't fight, since the pay was terrific
for a student when making those emergency calls. However, the
things I saw and pulled out of toilets should have never been seen
by humans. There were always the feminine items, but for some
reason there were also frequently male or female underpants filled
to the brim, so to speak. Dunno why, but even in an apartment
where some married couple lived, NOBODY had any idea how that
loaded set of Haines got into the toilet. The strangest one was a
sock filled with sh*t found in one of the public toilets off the
lobby. I'm sure there was a story behind that one. <grin>
FWIW, the best snake to remove that type of plug was an electrical
fish tape with the end tightly bent and made into a hook. I
sacrificed about 4' of my fish tape and it became my first line of
defense against those clogs.
The reason I suggest adding the acid to the tank drain instead of
just the bowl is that it might contact some build-up that would
otherwise rest above the water line in the toilet. It's just
pouring it in at the highest point.
I agree with your analysis of water to acid and not the other way
around. Pouring in acid takes the water pH down gradually,
eliminating sputtering from going the other way.
Try flushing with a bucket of water, if the toilet flushes solids well
with a bucket you can give the toilet a acid treatment, its safe cheap
you can kinda tell if the water just swirls when flushing
Sounds to me like a clog.
When this happened to me, what I did after trying unsuccessfully to snake
the problem was to pull the whole unit, take it outside flip it up-side down
and run the garden hose in the outlet.
Problem was a plastic cap my kid dumped in and flushed.
While I had the unit out I replaced:
The gasket between tank and bowl and the bolts,
The tee bolts, nuts to hold down the bowl,
The overflow tube and flapper assy. (Old one still worked but was in poor
The angle stop and supply line. (My policy is to replace any valve with
quarter turn ball valves, and supply lines with the nice braided stainless
Having the toilet completely apart is also a good time to clean all of those
places that don't get cleaned too good.
You should also caulk almost all the way around the base. You want to leave
a little gap in the caulk bead in the back as if the wax ring is leaking you
want to spot that before you have major structural damage to the floor.
Buy the good parts, it only costs a few bucks more and they work better,
last longer than the cheap ones do. It is a good idea to slather plumbers
grease over the threads and then cap the hold down nits with a glob of
plumbers putty. The plastic caps don't do much more than look good and the
putty and grease helps keep the corrosion from boogering the threads.
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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