How come? installer has to correct the situation. I am sure it is still
under warranty. If OP fiddles with things, it can void warranty creating
more problem. Often people don't think logically, Duh!
I think the odds are high that he's the one who sent the serviceman once
already. The installer needs help.
Who said "things"? I said thermostat.
Do you think setting the thermostat to 80, which has already been done,
voids the warranty?
Setting the thermostat higher will not void the warranty, especailly
since the house is still between 55 and 63. After all, if the
thermostat has nothing to do with the problem, then setting it higher
will do nothing more to turn the boiler on -- so not only the warranty
won't be affected but neither will the boiler -- and the house will
become no warmer.
OTOH, if the house does get warmer with the higher setting, that means
the thermostat is part of the problem. That tends to clear the boiler,
depending on details.
There is still a third possibility, that the thermostat is part of the
problem but turning it higher doesn't increase the warmth of the house.
That won't void the warranty either.
Steam was used in larger buildings, three or more story residences.
Very few houses have it, but some do. He also said furnace, but with
radiators, it has to be a boiler.
The water temperature in new units can vary. We have a 400,000 BTU gas
fired boiler for heating some of our offices at work. The old boiler
would cycle on and off. The water was about 180. It would come on and
of course give a good amount of heat. Then it would go off for a while
and I'd get a cold draft from the window behind my chair. In 10 or 15
minutes, it would come back on, I'd hear the hot water as the tubing
expanded. I'd feel good for 10 minutes, then the heat goes off and get
a chilly back. Repeat all day long.
With the high efficiency unit, it adjusts the water temperature. Never
paid much attention, but 120 to 140 I've seen. The water circulates
longer at a lower temperature and I never feel the cold draft. Makes
for a much better setup, much more comfortable.
My 4 year old system at home also runs a bit cooler than my old boiler.
It keeps everything evenly heated and is very quiet. This morning it
was minus 10 and very comfy in the house. I set back to 63 at night,
then 69 during the day.
That is possible. New burners, especially gas, can be very quiet.
Circulating pumps can be silent also. You have to put your hand on some
to tell if they are running.
Could be the OP's installer did not set the parametrs correctly, or a
sensor is not in the right place.
Let me add more details. This is a hot water boiler with radiators. The boiler
has 2 circulators and a hot water heater connected to it. One circulator (A) is
to a single added on room, circulator (B) is to the rest of the ranch style
house, and then the water heater stands alone. We get plenty of hot water and A
room is right on the button. It is B that we have a problem with. The
thermostat is set on 80 because any lower and we get heat in the 50's. The
serviceman came and pushed the boiler up to 185 degrees, as high as it would go.
This gave us hotter water and very good heat in A but did nothing for B. We
then had a new thermostat put in, still no change. The pipes have been bled, no
change. That's when I got the comment about the furniture blocking the radiator
but when I moved some furniture still no change. The temps have been unusually
cold here in CT but still a brand new system should keep us warm.
What is the temperature of the wall/room where the thermostat is mounted ?
Feel the radiators in the cold rooms. Are they so hot you can not touch
them on both the inlet and outlet ?
I would think that with two circulators there would be two thermostats so
each zone would be controled.
If the radiators in the cold rooms are very hot, then they are not
transferring enough heat to the room. If they are not very hot, then not
enough hot water is getting to them. Do the radiators have any valves on
then or in line somewhere that is not letting enough water get to them ?
Are you sure your circulating pump is comming on in the cold rooms ? If not
that would cause cold radiators. The cold radiators could be caused by the
pump not actually working and circulating the water.
As mentioned, it should not mater where the thermostat is set as long as it
is several degrees higher than the temperature at the thermostat.
My first thing to check is the circulating pump for B. It may be either
not working, a restriction in the line, or too small a size.
A quick test is to feel the lines. Since A is getting heated properly,
feel both the outgoing and return lines. Knowing how they feel, check
the B lines. The pipe going out should be just as hot as the A pipe.
Move your hand along and if you get a bit temperature drop, you know it
is not working properly.
I still think the service tech is incompetent and is missing a simple
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