Squeaky stair repair?


Googling squeaky stair repair, I see 2 different recommendations: wedges from below, and nails from above.
Where are hardwood wedges available? I see the soft ones, about 8 inches long, but they are soft wood, not something I want to trust to keep the stair treads in place. Where can I find hardwood ones?
If I go the nail route from the top of the stairs, what's the best nail? 8d is recommended, but should ring-shank, or resin-coated, or...? It's been awhile since I looked at nail technology, so recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks,
--
John English


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wrote:

    Self tapping screws installed with an electric drill have worked for me. They're usually located in the same area of the store as drywall screws. Be sure to get them long enough to go deep into the risers.
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yeah screws are way better
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yeah screws are way better
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Nobody You'd Know:

Do you suggest going into the risers from below the stairs or from above? Or both?
Screws are better, to be sure, but not as easily hidden. Sure you can countersink and dowel or putty over, but hiding a finishing nail driven from above is much easier than a screw in the same place.
And driving into stringers (they're beefier and easier to hit, yes?) is easier than into risers. Probably should run into both.
Thanks,
--
John English


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I don't think I understand your scenario; however, will comment with my own experience.
I had a board that broke under my light (coughs) touch when walking down the stairs. I replaced the rather weak plywood with a 3/4" piece and used screws (going down into the risers) and placed carpet over it. The thicker ply and screws really helped reduce, even eliminate squeaking.
My only thought on going up or down with screws would be on reducing risk of having a screw tip enter one's foot no?
JW...
John E. wrote:

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wrote:

Make your own?

I don't think you need ring shank or anything special if you do what I've done and seen done other places to keep nails from coming out. Put them in at an angle, 20 or 30 degrees maybe. Then put a second nail in leaning the opposite direction. Any forces that push the tread up will have to move the tread in one direction to move up one nail, and in the other direction to lift the other. Believe you me, it's a real nuisance when you want to separate pieces of wood that have been nailed this way. One has to take at least one of the two nails out first.
Have someone heavy and fat stand on the step when you do this. (Has to be heavy and fat. If just fat, it could be a fat 5-foot woman, or a fat 6-year old.)

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