Kayak storage on the beach.
Kind of like this:
except replacing the two pavers under each 2x6 with a cinder block.
I would like to secure the 2x6's to the cinder blocks so the boards
don't squirm around when loading/positioning the kayak.
I am thinking two blue masonry screws at each contact area. But a
little voice is saying "That's fine for just hanging something but in
this case they will split the cinder blocks when torque is applied"
How does this sound to Those Who Know?
I've been fastening cinder blocks to "block fences", lately. My
prefered method is to drill a hole in the block with a hammer-drill.
The hole diameter is large enough to accommodate the *head* of a bolt!
Then, fill the hole with an epoxy (I like "SET-PAC EZ" but there are
many others, depending on how strong you need the bond). And, set the
bolt head into the hole -- using a jig to keep it standing in the
correct orientation (e.g., drill a hole in a scrap piece of lumber just
large enough for the THREADS of the bolt; set the board ON the cinderblock
with the threads protuding through UP the hole)
Once set, you can position your board (or whatever) on the bolt and
secure with a large flat washer and nut.
Not being able to see your pix I will give estiguess.
How much do they weight and how many? Horizontal or vertical?
Tapcons (the blue screws) would likely work. Epoxy method by one poster
would work but $$$ All thread rod through the block might work. Like most
projects a little engineering is involved.
Shame I can't see the pix...
I think either Picasa has been moving the furniture around or it's been
so long since I started a new album that I forgot... either way, that
album had defaulted to Private access. Hopefully Public now.
If the 2x6 only needs to be restrained side-to-side, front-to-back,
rotate the blocks so the cavities are on top. Then, put ~5x5 inch
"nubs" on the underside of the 2x6 to fit within the hollows of
the cinder blocks. This will keep the boards from shifting -- but
not prevent them from being lifted off the blocks.
Note that you might wish to use "half blocks", instead. I don't
doubt they would adequately support the kayak's weight as well
as the full blocks -- yet would be half the size/weight (and
still have a single cavity that could be exploited by these "nubs")
It occurred to me, but I had two reservations:
1) Part of the idea of this setup *is* to make it hard to move.
Heavier is better and I will apply the fastenings on-site.
We're thinking bored kids and the occasional nighttime drunks
2) I have zero experience with sand, but it seemed like flipping them
hollows-side-up/down would accelerate any tendency for them to
sink into the sand.... less surface area...
Right now, my breadboard implementation is using blue screws and
it seems solid enough. Installation time comes, I'll remove the
screws and flip the blocks over and drill fresh holes.
I think Liquid Nails construction adhesive is also going to come into
the picture because experimentation with placing/removing the boat
indicates a need for some padding.
Got some of that Norsk multipurpose flooring (the stuff with the
scalloped edges so squares can be joined) laying around. It seems
pretty durable, so I'll Liquid-Nail it in place for the final setup.
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 10:05:00 AM UTC-4, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Then flip the hollows up, fill with rockcrete or sandcrete, insert a large bolt while still wet. Something like a 5/8 inch bolt six inches long, with the head sunk far enough to let the threaded end through your board, tighten a nut on top.
The problem I've found with (galvanized) bolts used like this is
the nut invariably breaks the zinc coating on the threads and,
as such, the nut/threads eventually rust. So, I only use this
sort of hardware outdoors when I don't EVER intend to loosen the
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 4:51:27 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:
I didn't think of that, that's a good point.
I wonder if it would be worth wrapping the threads with teflon tape. I know people who do that, not to prevent a leak but to lubricate the fastener and allow easy removal later.
I learned the hard way. :< I was "too clever, by half" when I made
the valve manifolds for the irrigation system. Instead of "cheap,
crappy PVC", I opted for galvanized pipe! (This will be more durable!)
Over time, all of the threaded fittings rusted. So, I recently replaced
them with solvent welded PVC.
If that were a problem, you could fill the blocks with cement/concrete
(with the exception of a "recess" near the top).
I'd be more worried about *blowing* sand piling up against the blocks
and kayak as it would effectively be acting as a windbreak.
You can also fasten a small "nailing surface" (screwing surface?)
to each block *permanently* and then attach/remove the actual
boards from *that*.
Note that any adhesive will fail when the wood starts to rot.
You'll end up with splinters of wood adhering to the blocks
and the bulk of the lumber flaking off.
You could explore the synthetic wood products (they're sort of
plastic like) to see how they might work.
That is what I intend to use once this thing proves itself conceptually.
I was at Home Depot today looking at deck material, but the stuff I saw
was kind of thin - maybe 3/4" actual max thickness, and not that wide.
How about treated lumber (the stuff that's green)?
Except that they may have failed just before you need to set the kayak
*on* them (at the start of the season) *or* just before you need
to get the kayak *off* them. If the previous solutions that did NOT
attach the board to the blocks were rejected, this suggests a board
"falling off" would likewise not be desirable.
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 7:25:43 PM UTC-4, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
I assume you've heard of screws? ;-)
Two 3/4" boards, screwed together become 1.5" thick, three is 2.25" and so on.
Screwing the layers together in a running bond pattern could get you any width you desired. If it must be "square" at the edges, boards ripped in half would fill the gaps.
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