Yes. I assume tipping it (while upside down) onto its bow would put too much strain on too small a part of the boat? Otherwise, you could hold/prop it up and "wheel" the support under it, then ease the stern down onto the "trailer" (for want of a better word)
Keep in mind that your own footing will be dubious in the sand. Big/bulky things tend to get a mind of their own (imagine it being windy!)
Per Don Y:
Sounds to me like the path of least resistance is to just let them rot and replace as needed. The consequences of failure are seem to be zero.
I didn't think of that, that's a good point.
I wonder if it would be worth wrapping the threads with teflon tape. I know people who do that, not to prevent a leak but to lubricate the fastener and allow easy removal later.
I assume you've heard of screws? ;-)
Two 3/4" boards, screwed together become 1.5" thick, three is 2.25" and so on.
Screwing the layers together in a running bond pattern could get you any width you desired. If it must be "square" at the edges, boards ripped in half would fill the gaps.
I learned the hard way. :< I was "too clever, by half" when I made the valve manifolds for the irrigation system. Instead of "cheap, crappy PVC", I opted for galvanized pipe! (This will be more durable!)
Over time, all of the threaded fittings rusted. So, I recently replaced them with solvent welded PVC.
Except that they may have failed just before you need to set the kayak
*on* them (at the start of the season) *or* just before you need to get the kayak *off* them. If the previous solutions that did NOT attach the board to the blocks were rejected, this suggests a board "falling off" would likewise not be desirable.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.