Romex color code?

There is a fairly new color code Yellow is 20 amp and orange is 30 amp. I
don't know of any other colors that have any significance.

# Fred # wrote:

No, although it seems that there is an unofficial color code for romex
jackets in use nowadays.  14/2 is generally white and 12/2 is generally
yellow.  this just makes it less likely for an installer to grab the
wrong spool of wire when working fast.

In my house, however, I have at least one run of 14/2 with a blue jacket
(which I think is now generally used for 10/2?) and one run of 12/2 with
a black jacket.  Since there's no OFFICIAL color code the mfgr. can make
it any color they want.

nate

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I was at home depot the other day and noticed rolls of 14/2 that had blue
jacketing.  i asked the fellow what it was for and he says a code is being
proposed that blue wire be used for circuts on arc fault breakers like for
bedroom outlets so it is easy to distinguish for the inspector.

Had not heard that one. Since the 2008 code will require AFCI on all
15 and 20a circuits I doubt it will really catch on.

The Southwire (newest owners of the "Romex" name) uses the standard
White 14ga
Yellow 12ga
Orange 10ga
Black 8ga or larger
Grey SE cable

Other manufacturers are somewhat following the lead but it has no
force of law.

Why do kitchen outlets not require GFIs or arcfault?

So the new code will be basically that all 120v circuits will need arcfault
breakers?

wrote:

Under the NEC (though maybe not the CEC), GFCIs *are* required in kitchens,
for any outlet serving a countertop space.

--
Regards,
        Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Yes i read that last night after I posted.  I'm in Canada though and it is
not code here.  I find that strange as where are you going to have more
water around an electrical device but the kitchen.

wrote:

Laundry room, maybe -- but the NEC requires GFCIs there too. Does the CEC?

--
Regards,
        Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Gary wrote:

They do require GFCIs.


That's what I'm hearing but I don't see how that will really catch on.
Certainly in many cases it will be impossible to retrofit older
buildings to meet code as there won't be enough space in the breaker
panel (AFCIs are full height, haven't seen any half height ones.)

nate


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 So the new code will be basically that all 120v circuits will need
arcfault

you will need to replace your service too

its really a good idea but will take a generation or more to complete.

wrote:


Code applies only to new work. Retrofit of existing installations that met
Code when they were installed is not required, unless they're being modified.
Then the modified installation has to meet Code. But if it's left alone, no
retrofit is needed.

--
Regards,
        Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Hmm, I'm wiring my new house right now, I wonder if I should use more arc
faults on the receptacle circuits?  I understand they are not good to use on
circuits serving lighting as per Rex Caldwell's Electrical book.  They are
much more expensive that a regular breaker.

On Mon, 18 Dec 2006 13:16:20 GMT, spambait@milmac.com (Doug Miller)
wrote:


They are also looking at that. CMP2 stopped short of requiring AFCI in
any existing building that had a panel changed but they looked at it.
There is another way to go if you really want AFCIs, You can put them
in a sub panel or you can use a "device type" in a box if the box is
connected by a steel wiring method to the panel. (steel AC cable, RMC,
IMC EMT). Currently that has to be 6' or less but that is being
extended "to the first box".

On Mon, 18 Dec 2006 13:16:20 GMT, spambait@milmac.com (Doug Miller)
wrote:

wrote:

This is a link to the ROC for CMP2
http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7831&d=1166410695

Doug Miller wrote:
wrote:

True, but there are some people (like me) who actively try to
incorporate some of the better ideas of code into their house even
though they don't have to.  e.g. since I am adding grounds to
receptacles, I might as well try to provide the now-required 20A
circuits for the kitchen and bath, and I've already added an AFCI for
the upstairs circuit simply because it was relatively easy to do and
now it meets code.  I may not end up with a 100% code-compliant (for
new construction, that is) system, but it will be closer to it than I'm
required to make it.

nate

On Mon, 18 Dec 2006 00:57:22 -0500, gfretwell@aol.com wrote:


I dont understand why they did not color the 14ga. since in the past
ALL romex was white.  I must admit, I am glad they colored it.  As I
age it's getting harder and harder to read the print on the cables.
This makes it easy to ID the gauge.

maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:


Isn't yellow likely to turn orange with age?  It seems to me they should
have separated those two by a bigger change in gauge.

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CJT wrote:

I'm not sure that's a big issue, at least for residential work - where
except for an electric water heater do you typically have 30A branch
circuits?

nate

A/C outdoor unit.  Dryer.

--
Steve Barker