Ridiculous FHA rules

Having been painted does not prevent lead paint that is now covered from being a problem. It would appear you have not totally removed any possible layer

Reply to
sligoNoSPAMjoe
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Removal is not required for lead paint. It only needs to be covered with non-lead paint. That is the standard everywhere that I know of.

Reply to
salty

I certainly don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to spell.

Reply to
Oscar

There is no requirement for removal of all lead paint, not even in abatement projects. You need to contain it. However, if you did it yourself, it would be difficult to prove and therefore it would be as if there was still lead there. Unless you have it tested, you presume it is there. Since the OP did the work himself, he did not use lead- safe work practices, he didn't use interim controls, and he didn't clearance; so it is as if the lead is still there. In fact, the lead might still be there because you don't know what quality of work was done. For example, did he clear the soil outside the house as the end of painting?

Working with lead isn't bad and isn't hard, but you do need training and need to do it right.

Reply to
PatM

Even removing the lead paint doesn't matter. It is pre-78. If it hasn't been tested, then you presume it's lead. The homeowner's word doesn't mean anything. Besides, there lead in things other than paint.

Reply to
PatM

It's not always that simple. The process and sequence from offer to contract varies regionally.

In MA, it typically works as follows:

  1. Buyer and seller negotiate price and basic conditions resulting in a written, signed "offer" from buyer to seller that is then signed by the seller. Typically, a small (00) deposit is given by buyer to obligate himself which is placed in escrow. Seller also is precluded from marketing and selling property. The offer itself is short, boilerplate, and sparse on details with only a few blanks to add in things like "includes fridgerator and curtains".

  1. Typically, the "offer" has several contingencies such as inspection and mortgage overall. The buyer usually has about 1-2 weeks to resolve the contingencies, including getting an inspection and obtaining a mortgage commitment. If contingencies aren't met then, the buyer can walk. Alternatively, they can renegotiate terms. The contingencies are usually worded to make it easy for the buyer to walk at this stage in almost all cases. At worst, the buyer loses his 00 deposit.

  2. A Purchase & Sale (P&S) agreement is then signed. Typically, an additional deposit of 5-10% of purchase price is added. A lawyer is usually brought in at this stage to review and/or edit the "boiler plate" basic agreement. This agreement is much more detailed and binding than the Offer and typically has few real outs unless buyer is willing to give up his much larger deposit and potentially be subject to suit for damages. The P&S also lays out the timing and terms for the actual sale

  1. Final sale documents are negotiated and agreed upon between buyer and seller. Both sides are advised to have lawyers involved. The bank is also involved when there is a mortage. The sale documents are signed at the time of the closing.

Reply to
blueman

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