As part of a bathroom remodel, I'm replacing some sheetrock and have a
question about mudding & taping.
How great of a gap can I have between new and old and on the old which
has a painted finish, can I just scuff up the paint with fine
sandpaper to get the mud and tape to stick? Will that be adequate I
guess is my question.
What about situations (which I have one :-) where as the sheetrock
meets, there's not any factory edge (depression in sheetrock for
taping). If it's a small section (18"x24"), can a person use
something like spackle or Durhams putty in the joint and not the
typical mud and tape?
Back to my original post - Does this 'mud' clean right up from the tub
surface or are there precautions I should take to protect the surface
from that stuff landing on it? Thanks very much - appreciate your
You still need to tape the joint--if you don't it will show up w/
hairline cracks almost immediately. It's easier to get small amount of
premixed drywall compound because you need to feather a butt seam over
at least 8-12" wide area to avoid the "hump"...
It'll dissolve w/ water...I'd probably mask off an edge just to make
cleanup quicker if I thought I was going to be messy...
So is there a desired gap (i.e. 1/4") that I should shoot for to allow
the mud to work in? What do you think about tape - do you prefer
paper or fiberglass?
Also, in the corner of the shower, I ended up with a little over 1/2"
vertically. Should I lay 3 strips of tape vertically across that gap?
(1 center and one on either side of that)? Guess that was my plan.
Almost anything works...it's <very> forgiving. 1/4 is kinda big simply
for the amount of mud you can "lose" into it if doing a whole house but
for a small repair area, you don't really care...
1/2" is kinda big for the same reason and because it will be harder to
work to get a smooth corner. I'd try to fill the void some if I could
and then treat it as ordinary corner as much as possible.
As for tape, I'm an old fogey so have used paper almost
exclusively...thank goodness, I've not done any significant amount of
drywall in almost 20 years... :)
1/2" OOPS! <g>
Been there, done that.
Do you have any more drywall to cut a better fitting piece?
You should try for a 1/16 - 1/8th gap, or just enough to get the mud in,
without wasting it.
While the boards are basicly made from the same stuff as the mud, boards are
cheap, mud/tape/time costs far more.
Thats' why the "pros" toss out what seems to be good size chunks of boards
You can fill a 1/2 gap, but do it in several layers, allowing each to dry
this will avoid excessive cracking and the mud running out in a blob.
But it will take a few days unless you use hot mud/quickset that you mix
Then once somewhat level, one piece of 2" tape centered across the gap will
work fine, finish it as normal.
Tape on drywall seems to be personal preference, I like paper, but some
people only will use the fiberglass.
Cement board = fiberglass only
Thanks for the reply, guys. I'm a novice sheetrocker as you can tell.
Since this is going to be used for a tub insert, I don't know if a
super tight seal is important (Crane Plumbing indicates in their
literature that the surround is so water tight, it doesn't matter what
kind of sheet rock you use and that a person COULD put it directly to
the studs if they wanted to). I opted not to put it right to the
studs fearing how the surround might react when one of my teenagers
puts weight on it, etc...
I had 'planned on' (though that plan is adjustable :-), using the self
adhesive fiberglass tape and mudding over that. If I've read this
stuff right - with the non-stick, a person would apply a thin coat of
mud, overlay the tape, and mud over the top of that. It appears that
with the self adhesive, you just stick the tape and mud over the top.
I was planning on the self adhesive since inside corners would
seemingly be easier and less messy. I don't see where any water
damage or structural related issues will occur from this approach
BUT... Being a newbie to sheetrocking sends me here.
Again, your advice is welcome and appreciated.
That's where my plan becomes 'adjustable' as noted above, Duane :-)
experts or experienced guys like yourself have been a huge help as
I've navigated through this project. Thanks again for your advise -
I've learned a lot and this has been an interesting and valuable
I'd planned on taping it because of the top line (where I removed the
old laminant insert and replaced the sheetrock about 5' up the wall.
Figured too that if anything were to happen to this 'leak proof'
surround, damage may be minimized by taping and mudding the back
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