And exactly what do you not understand about using PVA as an
"additive" to patching cement? Is it not "fresh" concrete? I'm not
alking about a primer or a sealer - I'm talking about an additive to
fresh patching cement..
And even IF I was talking about using it as a primer, the alkalinity
of the fresh concrete used for the patch would DEFINITELY have an
effect on the pva applied to the old concrete, wouldn't it???
And I guess we really don't know how or why the PVA crosslinks to
become a solid rather than an emulsion in the concrete while it
remains an emulsion when used as a wood glue. All I know is what I've
been told and the results the old guy next door has had using BondFast
white glue as a concrete patching additive.and what I've learned by
doing some internet searches on the subject, trying to figure out the
I'm no expert on this stuff either.
But, I do know that PVA wood glue re-emulsifies if it gets wet and stays
wet for a long time, and that concrete bonding agents are made so that
they DON'T re-emulsify if they stay wet for a long time because it's
often necessary to repair concrete in areas that are wet for long
periods. You wouldn't have confidence in your repair if you couldn't
count on the glue not to come apart on you.
And, I just don't accept that if PVA has poor alkalinity, that using it
in fresh concrete is going to improve it's performance in any
significant way, including making it more moisture resistant. If you
can find a credible web site that says it does, I'll read it carefully,
but otherwise, I just don't believe that.
Using your "nestor" scraper on a concrete porch would waste a month of
Sundays. A hardwood scraper works MUCH better and quicker for the
first go-round. Just cut a hardwood board with a taper down to roughly
1/8 to 3/16 inch - about 3 or 4 inches wide - and use that to scrape
the goo off into a metal dustpan, cake-pan, shovel, or whatever to
dispose of it. Use a "gel" paint remover containing Methyllene
Chloride and DO NOT get it on your skin or in your eyes etc.
If there is much left after the first application and scraping, a
second application and scraping is often effective - and then you
wash it off, preferably with a pressure washer, working AWAY from the
house - and wearing goggles or a full face shield. After washing with
water a stiff bristle brush will remove any remains. Then etch with
muriatic acid, patch any hollows with modified patching cement (or a
strong sand-mix concrete mixed with BondFast or other PVA adhesive in
place of about quarter of the water) and coat the concrete with your
choice of concrete finish - FlexRock works well and stands up - there
are others - including the epoxy garage-floor kits you can buy from
the BORG or other building supply stores.
Just a thought . . . , maybe you could try using http://tinypic.comto
upload photos. I've used that and it works well for me. Photos would
About the lead paint issue -- yes, it is something to think about and to be
careful about. But, if it is your own home, and you do it yourself (meaning
you don't hire someone else to do the work for you), then you are not
required to follow the new stupid U.S. federal rules for lead paint removal.
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