Re-Doing The Siding On A House ?

Hello:
I realize that this is a nearly impossible question to answer at all accurately, but have gotten such good help from the group in the past, thought I'd at least post this, and perhaps get some very approximate, or bracketed, opinions.
Would like to get just a little better feeling or what's involved before going around to Contractors.
Live outside of Boston. Have a house that presently has T1-11 vertical siding on it. This is a fairly typical 3 bedroom split-level entry. The kind you find by the zillions all over.
Looks like just about all of it will have to be replaced Would use a "better" grade of siding this time.
Before I start contacting local contractors, what price range might I expect for redoing all four outside walls with a "better grade of siding ?
What price range for doing this might I expect as reasonable ? (would want all the old siding to be totally removed, first)
Is this mainly for labor ?
What's a good replacement siding to go for ?
What questions should I ask the Contractor, or request be part of the job ?
Thanks, Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I just got a bid for fiber cement siding at about $3.00 / sq. ft. in place. This is Charleston SC area. I would certainly look at fiber cement siding. It appears to hold paint better than wood, and to be less prone to rot.
What ever material you use, make sure openings are properly flashed, there is a drainage plain behind the siding and it is well clear of the ground.
TB
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I just went through this on a house that I own.
I suggest you strip the old stuff off completely. You may find some concealed rot that you did know you had.
I went back with new OSB, house wrap and vinyl siding. In a different house I would have considered the cement based lap boards to be a viable choice. Your choice is based on your preferences. They still make a T-111 type product. I have an aversion to all exposed wood/composites as I just don't think modern paint keeps the water out. I have seen way to much rot 10-15 year old homes.
This biggest concern a contractor would have bidding this job is what he is going to find when he pulls off the old siding. The actual process of removal and installation he can figure with a pretty good degree of accuracy. If he has to CYA the concealed stuff the bid is going to be a lot higher. With contractors I know, I generally agree on a price for the known work and add on the concealed stuff after it is discovered or I do the repair myself. You may not have the time, tools, skill or inclination to do this. I still think the best price will be had by not forcing the contractor to bid on what he can't see.
Unless you are dealing with someone you know or very highly recommended, you should learn what the proper flashing techniques are for all the flashing that will be required and you should be there while the work is being done to make sure it is done properly. The durability of the entire job is in the flashings. Caulk is not a flashing!! Before I found a roofer I could trust I stopped several jobs in process because they weren't doing it right. And siding flashing is just as important. Maybe even a little more so because you don't see the drips till it is way to late.
I can't help you at all with any price information except to say have a couple of drinks before you get bids.
Colbyt
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.