pressure washer maintenance


I've been given an Excell vertical shaft 6HP (2 gpm 2100psi) pressure washer.
http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/devilbiss-excell-pressure-washer-exwgv2121-parts
It doesn't look like it's had much use and no obvious abuse. It has an unknown history.
Runs fine but dies 10 seconds after running washer, not much spray pressure.
I know nothing about pressure washers. Oil in engine is fresh, have not yet looked in pump.
How should I proceed? I have mechanical aptitude and am fearless but don't want to get caught in a death spiral. What should I be looking at? When do I shoot it?
Jeff
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I'd suspoect the fuel system first. Small engines that sit often get crud in the float bowl. First step is to remove the float bowl, clean it out, and put it back.
There is also a pressure relief valve over on the pump side that allows it to run when the trigger is not depressed. The easiest way to see if that is a problem is to get someone to keep holding the trigger down while you start it. If it runs as long as the trigger is down then that relief valve could be a problem. The valves sometimes get stuck when they sit as well.
If it keeps starting then dying after checking all this then I'd remove, clean, and reassemble the carb. Check the passageways that stick down into the bowl. A small piece of wire can be used to clean them.
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On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 09:15:04 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:

washer-exwgv2121-parts
What dies, the motor or the pump?
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http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/devilbiss-excell-pressure-washer-exwgv2121-parts
99% of the time, it can be attributed to bad gas, or crud in the carburetor. Drain and flush all gas, and replace with new. Take off the carb and clean, or at least just take off the float bowl cup if it has one and rinse that. Make sure the air cleaner is good. Make sure no spiders have made nests in the fine channels in the carb.
Steve
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wrote:

Sounds like "fuel starvation". Some things to check that are easy:
Clogged fuel cap vent - loosen the cap 1/4 turn and see it is will run.
Stuck butterfly baffle or choke in the carb - check by looking in the carb throat for movement and proper operation.
Binding linkage - check for binding, weak springs, etc.
Collapsing fuel line.
Using a can of starting spray into the carb may get the engine running better.
Will it run longer with the air filter removed?
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The first thing I would do is disconnect the high pressure hose and see if the engine keeps running with just the garden hose flowing thru it. If it does, then the problem is more likely the pump mechanism or a clogged nozzle or both.
If it still stops, remove the pump (which is easy) and see if the engine runs continuously then. Again, if it does, then something is wrong with the pump.
Now, if the motor still dies, it could be anything. Fuel supply would be the first place to look.
Since you are mechanically fearless, this seems like a good project to tear into. What have you got to lose?
Hank <~~~will tear anything apart
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On 8/31/2010 3:15 AM, Hank wrote:

This seems right to me. Except I'll flush out the carb first and reoil the pump. I've never owned or used a pressure washer so this is all new.
Got a zillion things on the agenda. I had little money and came into a small inheritance (Mom died 3 years ago, my brother and myself took care of her -in every way- and ran our money out). So there is a huge pent up need. Getting something done with some money is a lot easier than with none.
Jeff
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Some of them have connectors that close when you remove the high pressure line. You need to confirm it does not have that to know if your test will be useful. That's why I suggested having a helper keep holding the trigger down.
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